Why Lebanese Couturiers Are Taking The Bridal Wear Market By Storm
We talk to the Beirut-based masters who have put Lebanon on the world fashion map.
Most of our introduction to this western Asian country, bordered by Syria on the north and east and Israel on the south, is through its immense gastronomic popularity. So much so, the shawarmas and the baklava are easily favoured for free-flowing weekend conversations. But there is another world in Lebanon, which demands our attention. It is a world of daring slits, sparkling embellishments, and lots of sheer fabrics that has broken the conventions of haute couture dominated by the western fashion houses.Welcome to the scintillating world of Lebanese couture.
Having dressed an array of A-listers across award ceremonies and runways around the globe, Lebanese couturiers have created a niche for themselves in international fashion. Most notable among them are Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, and Reem Acra. Lending a sensual gaze and bringing elements of classic glamour to fashion, Lebanese bridal wear is another segment where these couturiers have met with much acclaim and fanfare.
Liberating haute couture from the geographical stronghold of the fashion capitals of the world—Paris, Milan, London, and New York City, these designers from Lebanon have demystified the aura associated with these bastions.Taking haute couture a notch higher with their unique cultural perspective, they have also stormed into the foothold of white weddings.Traditionally, white weddings have been a sacrosanct affair—both produced and consumed either within a localised context (of the village, town, city, metropolis et cetera), or within the larger global context of elite fashion houses. The exceptions were always there—of Europeans or Americans travelling to the Middle East and commissioning their white wedding gown/outfit to Middle-Eastern shops for the sheer novelty (read exotic) factor. But these exceptions were never the norm. Cut to today, it’s a remarkable shift when a lot of European and American royalty get their wedding outfits made from the avowed crop of Beirut-based designers.
The most phenomenal Lebanese couturier is Elie Saab, the pioneer, who singlehandedly put Lebanon on the world map of fashion. It all probably started with Hollywood actor Halle Berry donning a burgundy gown created by Saab at the 2002 Oscars. The self-taught designer had never had to look beyond. And yet, despite attaining international acclaim, the Beirut- based designer still works out of his studio in his native town. “I have been working in my country for over 30 years and I was never tempted to move from Beirut. My haute couture atelier and studio are there as well as the back offices and operations. I have a production unit for ready-to-wear and accessories in Italy and show each collection in Paris.This is how we are structured and it works very well. I love my country and I have been working very well from there. I also have a responsibility towards the hundreds of employees who work for me in Beirut. Some have been with me since the beginning,”informs the designer who is passionate about his roots and cultural heritage. “We are the result of our culture and heritage. I’m (certainly) inspired by my culture and the richness it offers, and having lived in Beirut has been a great asset and an inspiration for me. In general, this is reflected through my choice in fabrics, rich materials, and use of warm colours like sand and other natural tones,” adds Saab.
Elaborating upon the nuances of haute couture and the role that it plays in today’s fast-paced world, Saab points out that haute couture is not just about dresses or suits but “it is about creating a unique silhouette that is exclusive to the woman who orders it”. He stresses that there is no reason to fret over its fate, as it will “always exist, in some form or the other, evolving and adapting itself to women’s increasingly international lifestyles”. For Acra too, couture is about uniqueness, as she says, “The world is always looking for something unique and personal.”
And yet, it is not only for haute couture that Lebanese fashion stands out in the world today but for the distinguished genre of bridal couture that has given a sweet spin to white weddings by adding drama, colours, sensuality, and edge. Saab informs us, “Bridal is something that is close to my heart, as I started my career by creating wedding gowns. It was a natural next for me to create a ready-to-wear bridal line. I wanted ELIE SAAB bridal to reflect the codes of the house while introducing a new and distinctive line.This line presents the essentials of feminine and daring silhouettes as well as signature embroideries and draperies.”The launch of ELIE SAAB Bridal in 2016 made the brand’s bridal creations accessible to a new section of brides. Before 2016, their wedding gowns were available in haute couture. However, even today, the brand has a selective and limited distribution network for maintaining the exclusivity factor.
Bringing us back on the subject of Lebanon is Saab’s passionate relationship with his hometown, which is also the mecca of his fashion project. It gives us an insight into the designer’s mind when he expresses his symbiotic ties with Lebanon and about giving back to the city that has given him creative impulse.“I am proud of having created a profession, which didn’t exist in my country before. I was the first Lebanese designer to gain international visibility and recognition. I have a responsibility towards my country to reflect its positive image. I believe that any successful business in Lebanon—whether it is a fashion brand or any leading company in a different industry—will contribute to this positive image of the country abroad. I want to help and encourage talented young generations to pursue a career in fashion design.That is the reason why I have launched a fashion design program with LAU (Lebanese American University) to provide Lebanese students with high educational standards in the field and pursue fashion.”
Over the years, there has been a great interest in and appreciation for Lebanese couture among Indian actors as well.“I have built very strong relationships over the years with Aishwarya Rai and Sonam Kapoor and feel pleased whenever they decide to wear one of my designs. I think they are the best ambassadors to represent the brand locally and they have a great aura internationally,” Saab informs us.
While the lilting and swaying notes of Arabic music continue to hit the right chords for us, we can’t wait to embrace the dramatic sweep of these Lebanese creations.When Acra points out that it’s all about feminine, delicate, and modern details for the Reem Acra bridal collection, chances are many Indian brides will resonate well with that. She says,“I am in love with the Indian wedding tradition and do hope that this tradition continues.” On that point, we will wait to see the new shores that Lebanese couture crosses over to and spread its wings.
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