Karl Lagerfeld's SS'18 Couture Collection For Chanel Felt Like A Jolt Of Optimism

For Chanel’s SS’18 haute couture collection, Karl Lagerfeld built a French garden complete with trellises, climbing roses and a working fountain in the environs of the Grand Palais as an ode to the Parisian spirit, keeping with the country’s optimism after President Macron’s selection. But nationalities and patriotism aside, there also aren’t that many designers who would have Lagerfeld’s vast repertoire to draw on, from his celebration of French joie de vivre.

Chanel SS'18 Couture

Putting the focus on shoulders, the designer showcased a long range of silhouettes – short, long, straight, full-skirted, cutaway, and so on. This season, the Chanel tweed bouclé suits came in glistening colours: lime green, raspberry and violet, with flowers blooming everywhere. A pleated white crepe blouse was teamed with a silk ball-skirt hand painted with blooming roses. Chiffon silk skirts fluttering beneath slim tweed coat-jackets or frothed over embroidered mini sheath dresses (seemingly held in place with a single magenta ribbon) had a determined air. There were dramatic new A-shaped jackets and dresses that fell away from the body, their un-clunky volumes due to perfection of proportion and the lightness of Chanel’s tweed embroideries. Each model wore a short black veil that fell from a nosegay at the top of their heads. And flower power continued throughout the palette dominated by mostly gentle pinks with occasional outbursts of vibrant colour. Skin-length boots with sculpted, perspex wedge-heels matched all of the outfits and were either beaded or tweed. Kaia Gerber – Cindy Crawford’s daughter and one of the most trending models right now – wore a cocktail dress of pale pink ostrich feathers packed tight as rosebuds.

Chanel SS'18 Couture

As for the finale, Lagerfeld sent out a bride, and she wasn’t in your typical gown. She wore a Marlene Deitrich-esque tuxedo with feathered sleeves and a train – this look is particularly relevant, at a time when women are challenging outdated male power. Although this potentially sugary view of fashion might seem like a dismissal of the turmoil in the modern world – especially when women are choosing their attire as a response to male aggression. Karl Lagerfeld had the strength and skill to present timeless prettiness with a wild edge, making it believable.

Chanel SS'18 Couture

But how does he do it all? Lagerfeld still stands tall at the age of 84. Apart from Chanel, he churns out collections for FENDI and his namesake label. If complexity sounds like a paradox, it’s one of his unique achievements. His ability to make spontaneous, witty, poetic, madly creative leaps has made him a living legend. And this SS’18 Chanel collection proved the point: When designers are really good, they give us what we don’t want. Spending money to get cheered up? Sounds like the very best reason to buy something in this climate.

All images courtesy: IMAXTREE