Bottega Veneta's Creative Director Speaks On His Vision For The Brand

 At a time when the fashion world is experiencing an upheaval of theatrics and overly dramatic representations on the ramp, Bottega Veneta continues to do what it does best: simple, sophisticated luxury for a discerning clientele. A relatively young luxury brand founded in 1966, Bottega Veneta’s name literally translates to “Venetian Shop.” Built on the founding principles of impeccable craftsmanship, exquisite materials, perennial beauty, and a healthy respect for tradition, it is the quintessential poster brand for understated luxury. The brand saw brief success with its goods in Intrecciato-woven leather in the ’70s before creative director Tomas Maier skyrocketed it to cult status. “When I joined the house, it was losing its identity and roots. So, I instituted our four cornerstones of outstanding craftsmanship, timeless-yet- innovative design, contemporary functionality, and the highest quality materials,” says Maier about the changes he has brought since he was appointed creative director in 2001. Discipline combined with a liberal dose of creativity was ingrained in Maier’s upbringing. Maier, who was born in a family of architects in Pforzheim, Germany, trained at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, before working at Guy Laroche, Sonia Rykiel, and Hermès. Since 2001, he has been spearheading every aspect of creation at Bottega Veneta with a razor-sharp eye, impeccable taste, and hyper-detailed approach. The label’s original modest motto—“When your own initials are enough”—is perfectly in tune with the designer’s principles. “When I began, the motto had fallen into disuse, but we revived it.

Priyanka Chopra, Ana De Armas at the BV FW18 show

Bottega Veneta bag.

It represented where I wanted us to return. My goal was to build a brand focussed on highlighting the product and enhancing its individuality. Our brand’s identity is portrayed solely through its craftmanship and this is still true after 17 years,” he explains. While on the subject of signatures, we ask Tomas how he has transformed the brand’s iconic ‘Intrecciato weave’ over the years, to which he says, “Seeing the capability of the craftspeople was just incredible and I immediately recalled the Intrecciato bags my own mother used to carry. This distinctive leather weave design is a beautiful way to make a soft, supple, constructed bag durable.” Maier suggests that staying true to one’s roots, fusing technique and creativity with know-how and gestures is the key to developing accessories that stand the test of time. Case in point, the Cabat, which was the first bag designed by Maier when he first started at Bottega Veneta. “I wanted it to be unlined, as beautiful on the inside as on the outside and to reflect Bottega Veneta’s philosophy of understatement, luxury, and contemporary functionality,” or the iconic knot clutch, which borrows from the house’s archives. It is ideal for a bride who wants to treasure the bag’s minimalism and compactness. He holds fashion to the same standard of functionality he admires in industrial design. He has no patience for pieces that don’t work—“a skirt you can’t walk in,” or a “a bag that is heavy before you even load it up.” The same philosophy has been applied to his latest spring-summer ’18 collection that he showcased at Milan’s Palazzo Archinto. He combined nuances of sportswear and contrasted it with shimmering textiles and extensive embellishment. He has introduced the BV73, a top-handle shape inspired by an archival style from 1973, and the Palio group—one that spotlights Bottega Veneta’s trademark Intrecciato. Shoes are in a chic kitten heel—replete with metal grommeting and jewel-stud embellishments. In lieu with the brand’s fall-winter showcase, the Italian maison also broke ground on its first flagship boutique on Madison Avenue. “The design is very Bottega Veneta. It’s subtle and sophisticated but there are layers of details and elements that are unexpected and even a bit surreal,” describes Maier. But the Manhattan obsession doesn’t end there; the label is rolling out New York Icons, a 33-piece capsule collection that pays tribute to some of the city’s most recognisable features. We asked the designer how he maintains rigorous standards of production at a time when most brands are starting to outsource their labour.  “Craftsmanship is the connection between history and tradition, and because it’s so crucial to the process that in 2006 we founded La Scuola dei Maestri Pellettieri di Bottega Veneta, a school where experienced craftsmen and women work closely alongside new apprentices passing down precious knowledge to future generations and ensuring that this extraordinary tradition not get lost,” he concludes.