9 Jewellery Designers On Their Favourite Piece of Jewellery

CENTRE OF ATTRACTION

“It took us almost two years to craft this marvellous necklace. It is carved in 18K white gold, and is centred by a 100 carat Columbian emerald of remarkable transparency and purity,” explains Yash Agarwal, Partner and Creative Director at Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jaipur. 

The diamond and ruby interlinks have been meticulously carved by the jewellery house, and “diamond briolettes have been included to add to the grandeur and finesse of the Begum necklace.”

This piece celebrates history on a string, for the modern wearer. “It is inspired by Mughal royalty, and designed keeping in mind a sense of refined beauty, elegance, and feminine appeal,” he says.

The statement necklace is also flexible and allows movement while wearing it, in spite of how large it is. “It can be styled with traditional, Indian attire as well as western looks—emphasising on your style and personality is always important,” Yash adds. 

WORK OF ART

“This necklace is an ode to the classic Rani Haar, reimagined in a contemporary manner,” shares Kunal Rawat, Chief of Operations at Rawat Jewels. The stunning necklace features a pendant made with two semi-circular, carved emeralds, weighing almost 495 carats, encased in a polki-studded frame. 

“We adapted the conventional belt-like polki string, which usually shapes a Rani Haar, to a band of classic Mughal floral motifs—each of these is studded in jadau, and they lead up to the accentuated pendant,” he explains. What is interesting about the design is that despite being strung in a heavy band, the pendant remains the centre of attention.

“Being Jaipur-based jewellers for over nine generations, a piece like this will always be special to us because it is a timeless creation. With it, we pay homage to the rich jewellery culture our family has been known for,” he says. 

Kunal considers this necklace ideal for the modern bride, who could wear it with both traditional, Indian outfits and western silhouettes. “We like to call such classic, Indian jewellery ‘art pieces’ for how unique they look. I imagine that this piece would make a statement not only in modern times, but also over generations to come, as family heritage.”

STRENGTH OF A WOMAN

“Handcrafted in 22K gold for the film Padmaavat, the ‘Goddess necklace’ takes inspiration from the beauty of Rajasthani royal jewellery,” shares Abhishek Rastogi, Head of Design at the jewellery division of Titan Company. 

Each of the delicate kundan units is inspired by the intricate floral motifs of Rajasthani art, and there are five beautiful miniature paintings in the medallions. “Each of them is an incarnation of Devi as ‘shakti’, a personification of the divine feminine power of creation, preservation, and destruction. An age-old artform, these miniature watercolours have been painstakingly created on handmade paper, using crushed natural minerals. They have been encased in sapphire crystal, lined with takkar ka kaam and moti gheri on the borders,” he explains. The necklace was crafted by a well-orchestrated team of seven karigars, who worked tirelessly on it for over three months.

In the movie, Deepika Padukone wears this necklace when her character is introduced as the new bride to the temple priest, who tries to gauge her strength of intellect. “We wanted to create something that conveys her spirit of character. The miniature paintings symbolise the Supreme Being as her guide and protector in her married life. They also emphasised her purity, strength, and courage,” Abhishek explains.

The jewellery designer recommends this piece for a bridal trousseau. “It is also perfect as a family heirloom, to pass down over generations,” he states. 

“The necklace can be paired beautifully with fusion lehengas, saris, or gowns in pastel as well as jewelled tones. It sits very well on the neck, due to its fabric-like flexibility, and is perfect for the modern bride planning to make a statement,” he adds.

ROYAL TREATMENT

“This stunning pair of earrings has been crafted with rose-cut diamonds and round, brilliant diamonds in the Baroque style. What makes it unique is the intricate craftsmanship that beautifully accentuates the classic, European-inspired design,” shares Ishu Datwani, Founder of ANMOL.

The ornate danglers have been crafted “keeping in mind the eloquence of women from royalty, who make a statement with their individuality and persona.” For the modern woman, Ishu imagines these being worn to a sophisticated wine and cheese gathering, styled with a cocktail dress. “These earrings would also look beautiful when worn to an extravagant wedding function, paired with an elegant outfit. They make a statement, which traces back to the imperial legacy,” he shares.

THE THRILL OF GREEN

Russian emeralds, uncut diamonds, and natural pearls make this heritage necklace and earrings set a stunning addition to any trousseau. As Sonu Jain, Owner of Suncity Jewels explains, “Emeralds have that unique quality about them that makes them the most expensive stones, which is why women prefer wearing them as rings. We began to experiment with the idea of making them more suited to the modern girl. Russian Emeralds was the answer—they have a contemporary appeal to them, while being affordable, and are perfect for the modern woman.”

What makes this set special is both its size, and the fact that it can be paired with most outfits, due to its soft, pastel colour. “This one is a stunner, and it can be worn to almost every occasion. It can be paired with Indian clothes, and also works as the perfect statement piece for an Indo-western outfit,” he shares. The best part? The necklace and earrings work great as separates, too. “One thing is certain—this is sure to get you many compliments!” says Sonu.

DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER 

“This striking cuff was made keeping the red carpet in mind, and is set in 18K white gold with rare and responsibly-sourced Forevermark diamonds,” says Bhavin Jakhia, Director of Om Jewellers. 

Crafted for their signature collection, the design is suited to special events where one needs to dress up for the occasion.   

“It’s a versatile cuff and complements both Indian and western silhouettes. As it’s a statement piece, it's best accessorised with a pair of chandelier or diamond drop earrings and nothing more. Simplicity is beauty,” Bhavin shares. 

A REGAL AFFAIR

“This multi-layered necklace has been crafted with uncut diamonds and rubies, each individually sculpted to suit the design, and is set in 24K gold,” explains Manushi Singh, Director of Rare Heritage. “It is the perfect expression of grandeur, style, poise, and elegance with a dash of drama for the bride-to-be.”

The design takes inspiration from the majestic jewellery worn by erstwhile royalty, and belongs to the Baroque Collection of the brand’s couture and fine jewellery line, TARIFA. “It is the modern interpretation of a bygone era. We imagine it being the ideal choice for the bride who is graceful and intellectual, yet playful in spirit. She is someone who would like to waltz down the Hall of Mirrors in the Palace of Versailles, wearing a multi-layered couture dress, and adorned with rubies and uncut diamonds,” Manushi shares.

She recommends this remarkable necklace be worn by the bride on her special day, teamed with an elegant, couture outfit.

A TRIBAL ADAPTATION 

“This statement necklace is made with Basra pearls, small, gold beads from Aligarh, and a Rajasthani-style pendant called mandaliya,” explains jewellery designer Sangeeta Boochra who created this piece for her eponymous brand. 

It also features kundan-diamond polki and Afghani turquoise in Bikaneri work, set in 22k gold, by hand. The peacock motif on it symbolises peace and wealth. And the tassel has been handwoven from silk thread.

Elaborating on the unique pendant, Sangeeta shares, “The mandaliya is one of the most popular pieces of tribal jewellery from Rajasthan and Gujarat, which is worn by both men and women of the region. It is seen in many iterations, such as pendants, bajubandhs, bracelets, and earrings. While it is usually made in silver, I have adapted it in gold.”

The piece has been inspired by her travels to the interiors of India, where she observed and collected design ideas to create this necklace. “It is perfect for weddings, evening functions, or any formal occasion,” she says.

LADY IN RED

“One of my favourite pieces is this cuff made with bright-red ruby beads, lined alternately with rows of brilliant cut, round diamonds, and set in 18k white gold,” says Renu Oberoi, creative director of her eponymous jewellery brand. “It's a simple design, but looks stunning when worn,” she adds.

“There is an interesting story behind these rubies—around three years ago, I had purchased strands of them for a necklace set I had designed, and these were left from the back of the strand. They were graded and not easy to use in any design. It bothered me that such lovely beads were just lying around. Then it suddenly came to me that I can use them like cut precious stones,” she recalls.

The beads needed to be placed with absolute precision, and it took a month to determine how to go about it. “The final product was just gorgeous!,” Renu says. “This 3D cuff has a lot of height and depth to it. It’s easy to slip on and off because of its spring mechanism, and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.”

She recommends wearing it with a sleeveless dress or a top with thin straps to make an impression. “It also looks great with a sari or kurta,” she adds.