The history of the 'mermaid' lehenga
From Mughal royalty to modern bridal runways, the mermaid lehenga tells a story of cultural evolution, fusing age-old craftsmanship with contemporary silhouettes.
The mermaid lehenga may be a modern bridal favourite, but its story is rooted in centuries of sartorial evolution. While the lehenga itself originated in the Mughal era as a symbol of opulence and artistry, the mermaid silhouette is a contemporary innovation influenced by Western fashion. Together, they form one of the most dramatic and stylish ensembles in today’s Indian wedding landscape.
Mughal beginnings
The lehenga traces its origins back to the Mughal Empire in the 16th century. Worn by queens and courtiers alike, it was celebrated for its flowing form, rich fabrics, and heavy embellishment. Crafted in silks, velvets, and brocades, adorned with gold zari and intricate embroidery, the lehenga became synonymous with wealth, culture, and royal grandeur. Over centuries, it remained a staple of Indian festive and bridal attire, adapting with shifting trends while preserving its essence.
The 'mermaid' silhouette in Western fashion
The fitted silhouette of the mermaid gown emerged in mid-20th-century Western fashion, known for its figure-hugging cut and dramatic flare from the knee. This style gained momentum during the 1980s and 1990s, a period marked by extravagant fashion and bold statement-making designs. Glamorous, sculptural, and attention-grabbing, the mermaid gown became a go-to for red carpets and weddings alike.
The fusion: Birth of the mermaid lehenga
It wasn’t until the early 2000s that Indian designers began marrying these two worlds. Pioneers like Manish Malhotra and Tarun Tahiliani reimagined the traditional lehenga through the lens of the mermaid gown’s silhouette. The result was the mermaid lehenga—an ensemble that hugged the body through the hips and thighs before flaring dramatically below the knees. This design preserved the embellishment and cultural richness of the lehenga while offering brides a contemporary edge.
Today’s mermaid lehenga
Now a bridal and runway staple, the mermaid lehenga has cemented its place as a symbol of heritage-meets-modernity. Often embellished with sequins, crystals, or traditional embroidery, it merges timeless craftsmanship with bold, sculptural drama. Designers experiment with add-ons like capes, tulle overlays, and customised blouses, ensuring the style continues to evolve while remaining faithful to its Mughal roots.
The mermaid lehenga is more than just a fashion trend—it is the product of centuries of cultural exchange and design evolution. From Mughal courts to Western red carpets, and finally, to the contemporary Indian bride’s trousseau, its journey reflects fashion’s ability to preserve heritage while embracing innovation.
Here are our top picks of mermaid lehengas for the modern bride.
Nikita Gujral Ivory Net Crystal & Pearl Embellished Fishtail Skirt Set, ₹117,500
Seema Gujral Red Net Embroidered Lehenga Set, ₹238,000
Shivan & Narresh Azure Vine Bustier with Fish Cut Skirt, ₹ 368,950
Shweta Aggarwal Green Net, Silk Pearls Blossom Garden Embroidered Mermaid Lehenga With Blouse, ₹139,000
Papa Don't Preach Sophie- Blue Mermaid Lehenga Set, ₹430,890
Lead image: The brands
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The history of the 'mermaid' lehenga
From Mughal royalty to modern bridal runways, the mermaid lehenga tells a story of cultural evolution, fusing age-old craftsmanship with contemporary silhouettes.
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