Suneet Varma on bridal fashion, cinematic glamour, and the art of couture

Drama, music, and charisma: these are all hallmarks of the “Suneet Varma” signature. We all know how long Varma has been associated with his grand Bollywood finales on the runway. It's no surprise to us when we say that Suneet Varma has always been a storyteller: he's a couturier of dreams draped in fabric with larger-than-life silhouettes.

With his new retail space in Mehrauli, New Delhi, Varma has taken that same energy off the runway and into a space where you are invited to witness every ensemble, telling you a tale of romance, passion and making you feel like a scene out of a cinematic saga. From sumptuous lehengas to sculpted gowns, sarees, and ornate corsets, dive into a world of bridal and couture fantasy.

Brides Today: Congratulations on your new store! Tell us about what influenced your decision to expand your retail presence to Mehrauli?

Suneet Varma: The idea was to expand the retail business from DLF Emporio to Mehrauli because it has become such an important hub for the bridal market, specifically. With a larger expansion plan in mind, the thought process was also to increase the footprint of a retail space from a DLF Emporio, which has a varied audience, to Mehrauli for luxury shoppers travelling from Punjab, Rajasthan and even Gujarat. Together, both these spaces felt like an extension of the couture journey. 

BT: What was the thought process that went into designing the store?

SV: I always wanted my store to be very luxurious and have an experiential space for customers when they view couture. The Mehrauli store has a different vibe from the DLF Emporio space. The walls at the new store have a soft, muted gold tone with absolutely beautiful white marble flooring. Adding a touch of luxury upon entering, you will find a gorgeous modern chandelier elevating the store space, and you will also be greeted with an etched, bevelled glass mirrored wall, almost like a beautiful mirror tableau where you can see yourself in. 

With the store thoughtfully divided into two sections, giving you multiple experiences, you will find couture pieces, including wedding lehengas and gowns on one side, and the other side includes sarees and kurtas. 

BT: You just showcased at ICW. How do you decide which pieces transition from the runway to your stores?

SV: Yes, I think when it comes to couture shows, I’ve become known for the music and the drama we bring to the runway—and honestly, that’s something I really enjoy, but it is important to crack that formula and do things that look very effective on the runway. 

We as a team manage to create that ambience with music, set design and styling, but at the same time we make sure that a lot of our pieces will transition into retail pieces as well, may it be wedding lehengas, gowns, kurta sets, to shararas. In this couture show, we aimed at creating a more youthful silhouette. We paired up the things together and experimented with short trousers, crop tops, mixed and matched different dupattas with draped skirts and corsets. With the corset again becoming a very important staple, particularly among young women who are gravitating back towards my collections.

BT: What, to you, makes for a good retail experience in this digital-first world?

SV: This is a very interesting question—and actually something I’ve been pondering over for quite a bit. We actually began planning for this nearly six months ago, even before we started building our new store. To get a really interesting retail experience in the digital world today is not just to build beautiful stores, but it is to be able to have an ease of shopping, and also the visibility so that the customers know exactly what they're buying, while also having the experience at the same time. 

BT: Craftsmanship has always been integral to your work. Could you tell us about the artisans you work with and how you narrow down on the heritage techniques you want to use in a collection?

SV: Absolutely. Craftsmanship and the use of artisanal techniques are key in my work. Every collection I design, season after season, I keep in mind the innovation factor, but also how we can honour our traditional craft. For instance, we won’t just use mirror work as is, we would pair it with crystal, or we may combine crystal embroidery with chikankari, which is beautiful on its own but could be enhanced with antique hand-cut sequins to create a fresh look. 

Even though the process takes time, the whole journey from start to finish is deeply gratifying because at the end of the day, we know we have bettered our craft, technique and diversified what we can offer to our clientele by creating some heritage pieces.  

BT: Congratulations are also in order on the launch of your ready-to-wear line. Can you give us a sneak peek into what we can expect to see at Lakme Fashion Week, where you will be debuting the line?

SV: I am extremely excited for this new start. Though I have designed ready-to-wear collections before, collaborating with Lee Jeans across Asia and a few menswear projects with other brands, this is the first time I’m doing it under my own label. While designing this new collection, the outlook was very intentional, wanting to provide what my audience loves: the looks are more young and sexy. You will also come across some seductive pieces that are still wearable and can be treasured over time in modern silhouettes, including corsets, dresses, sexy tops in knit fabric, and even some metallics. 

BT: When you aren’t designing, you are…? 

SV: I am usually very busy with a schedule that keeps me on my toes. Additionally, having to design three to four collections a year, alongside several major fashion show events, doesn't leave a lot of downtime: there is always something significant happening every eight to ten weeks. But when I do get a break from designing, I like to channel my creativity and indulge in cooking—it’s actually almost like my first love. I genuinely enjoy preparing meals and sharing them with my entire design team. For me, cooking goes beyond food—it’s about connection and building relationships of love and affection with those I care about.

BT: What do you do when you hit a block with a collection? What snaps you out of it?

SV: Like most creative individuals, whether you're an artist, writer, or musician, there are times you will experience creative blocks. Sometimes it is merely exhaustion, being overworked or simply feeling depleted and not inspired, but naturally it is all a part of the process. My mother was a poet and a writer, and a lot of my uncles sang beautifully. For me, the most effective way to move past that block is through music. Growing up in a musical family, I also have a group of close-knit friends who share similar interests; hence, music has always been a stress buster and a big part of my life. It’s more than just background sound; it is my way of emotional release and inspiration at the same time. 

And as you may have seen, a lot of my shows are based on music. Whether it is music from Pakistan or celebrating tunes of the '70s or '80s, English or Hindi, music is a very large part of my day-to-day life, keeping me perpetually inspired in many ways.

Having a double-store presence at DLF Emporio and recently opening a new store in Mehrauli, Suneet Varma is also gearing up for Lakmé Fashion Week in Delhi, where he will be showcasing his first-ever new ready-to-wear line under his label. He further plans on expanding his very first flagship store in Hyderabad year-end, marking his entry into a market he has never fully explored yet. We are super excited for Varma, and Brides Today wishes him all the very best in his journey of couture that’s both inspiring and well-deserved.

All images: Suneet Varma

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