Is your zari authentic? Here’s how to tell for sure

When it comes to bridal shopping, we obsess over colours, silhouettes, and embroidery—but rarely do we ask, is the zari real? For generations, zari (also known as zuri) has quietly held court in the Indian bridal wardrobe. Woven with threads of silver and gold, it’s the understated yet powerful detail that transforms a silk sari into an heirloom. But did you know that there is more to it than meets the eye?

In its most authentic form, zari is made by wrapping a silk thread with high-quality silver (98% purity or more) and electroplating it with gold. The process is painstaking and intricate, involving multiple stages of drawing silver rods into 25-micron-thin wires, making them supple enough to weave into fabric. Dinesh Talera, owner of the iconic Mysore Saree Udyog, says, “Real zari is not just a design element—it’s a precious metal in thread form.”

But that level of craftsmanship doesn’t come cheap. With rising gold and silver prices, real zari has become a rare luxury. In its place, several cheaper alternatives have emerged—copper-core threads with a thin silver coating, chemically dyed yarns, even lurex, which is essentially slivers of plastic film.

“To the naked eye, they might look similar,” says Talera, “but the difference lies in the feel, the fall, and the way the fabric ages.” This difference matters.

Real zari weaves are more supple—because silver is a soft metal—and that flexibility allows the sari to drape effortlessly. Faux zari, especially copper or plastic-based versions, tend to stiffen the fabric over time. The colours fade faster, the threads lose shine, and the garment simply doesn’t hold the same heirloom quality.

So how do you spot the real deal? Unfortunately, there’s no easy hack. “Even I can’t always tell at first glance,” Talera admits. Traditionally, the industry has run on trust. But Mysore Saree Udyog has taken it a step further. They’ve developed technology that can scan the zari thread and instantly generate a report showing its metal content—like a purity certificate for your sari. It’s the kind of detail that matters to a new generation of buyers—especially those leaning into conscious fashion.

“When I was shopping for my wedding, I didn’t want ten trend-driven outfits,” says Anjali Rao, a 29-year-old bride from Chennai. “I wanted three beautiful pieces I could wear forever. A real zari sari felt like a good way to honour tradition without being stuck in it.” That sentiment is growing. Real zari isn’t just about luxury—it’s about longevity. A well-woven sari becomes more than a garment; it becomes a memory vessel. “Textiles are a part of culture,” says Talera. “When you invest in real zari, you’re investing in something that holds emotion, story, and skill.”

It also aligns surprisingly well with sustainability. Unlike fast fashion or stitched garments that go out of style every season, a real zari sari is timeless. It can be reworn, reinterpreted, and passed down.

“A woman can live her whole life with just 15 well-chosen saris,” Talera points out. “And if they’re made well, they’ll never wear out.” If you are investing in one, he offers a few care tips: store it in a cool, dry place. Avoid sharp folds that can damage the silk over time. And never spray perfume on it—especially if it’s a chemical zari blend, which can erode with alcohol. Gold-coated zari will endure, but cheaper materials won’t.

And for those worried about spotting real zari on their own, don’t stress. The key is to buy from a trusted seller. Ask questions. Request certification if possible. “Think of it like jewellery,” says Talera. “You wouldn’t buy gold without a hallmark. Why buy zari without knowing what it’s made of?”

In an era of fleeting fashion trends, real zari stands out—not just for how it looks, but for how long it stays. For brides who want their wedding wardrobe to tell stories years down the line, it might just be the most meaningful investment of all. 

Lead Image: Aditi Rao Hydari/Instagram

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