The ultimate guide to using kojic acid for dark spot reduction

You already know about (and probably use) glycolic and salicylic acids in your beauty routine, but there’s another, somewhat under-the-radar acid that deserves some of your attention—particularly if your goal is to reduce dark spots, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and get a brighter, more even complexion. We’re talking about kojic acid, an ingredient naturally derived from mushrooms. It is excellent at fading hyperpigmentation and discolouration a.k.a dark spots. 

What is kojic acid?

If you didn’t know, kojic acid is a natural substance derived from various fungi, including species of mushrooms. Recently, it has gained popularity in the world of skincare and beauty due to its ability to inhibit the production of melanin in the skin. Melanin is the pigment that is responsible for giving colour to your skin, hair, and eyes, and an overproduction of melanin can lead to various issues like hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone. This is where kojic acid comes in—it works by blocking an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin, which automatically helps reduce the appearance of dark spots, freckles, and other forms of skin discolouration. It is often used in various skincare products, including serums, creams, and soaps, to address these issues and promote a more even and radiant complexion. 

What are the benefits of adding kojic acid to your skincare routines?

Controls hyperpigmentation: Kojic acid’s primary function is to control hyperpigmentation. As mentioned before, it works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour. This action makes it particularly effective in reducing the appearance of dark spots, melasma, and other forms of hyperpigmentation. 

Sun damage repair: Exposure to UV rays from the sun can lead to the development of dark spots and sun spots over time. Kojic acid helps repair and fade these marks, contributing to a more youthful and radiant complexion. 

Fades acne scars and freckles: Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often accompanies acne breakouts and can leave dark marks or scars. Kojic acid can help in fading these scars, making them less noticeable. Additionally, freckles which are clusters of concentrated melanin, can also be lightened with kojic acid, resulting in a more uniform skin appearance. 

Anti-ageing benefits: Some users have reported that kojic acid can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. While it’s not a direct anti-ageing ingredient, the overall improvement in skin tone and texture can contribute to a more youthful look. 

Enhanced product absorption: Kojic acid has exfoliating properties, promoting the removal of dead skin cells. This exfoliation not only improves skin texture but also allows other skincare products to work more effectively, thus maximising their benefits. 

It’s important to know that while kojic acid can be effective for many people, it should be used with caution, as it can sometimes cause skin irritation or sensitivity, especially in higher concentrations. Additionally, due to its potential to cause skin sensitivity, it’s crucial to use sunscreen daily when incorporating kojic acid into your skincare routines to prevent further pigmentation issues and protect your skin from UV damage. 

How to incorporate kojic acid into your skincare routines?

Patch test: Before using any kojic acid product on your face or a large area of your skin, perform a patch test. Apply a small amount of the product to a discreet area (like your inner forearm) and wait for 24-48 hours to see if you experience any adverse reactions such as redness, itching or irritation. 

Choose the right product: Look for skincare products such as serums, creams, lotions, or soaps that contain kojic acid. Ensure that the product you select contains a safe and effective concentration. However, if you’re new to the ingredient, we recommend starting with a lower concentration (around 1 to 2 per cent) to minimise the risk of irritation. 

Cleanse your face and start the application: Begin your skincare routine by cleansing your face with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser. This removes impurities, make-up, and oil, thus preparing your skin for the application. Now, depending on the type of product you’re using, apply a small amount to your face or the target area. 

Allow for it to absorb and then moisturise: Give the product a few minutes to fully absorb and settle into your skin. Then, apply a moisturiser suitable for your skin type to maintain hydration and balance. This helps counteract any potential dryness or irritation that kojic acid may cause on your skin. 

Monitor your skin: Pay attention to how your skin responds to kojic acid over time. If you experience excessive dryness, redness, or irritation, reduce the frequency of use or discontinue the product temporarily.