Kotwara's Meera, Muzaffar, And Sama Ali On Heritage Crafts And Modern Brides

When it’s Kotwara by Meera & Muzaffar Ali, one cannot help but think of the larger-than-life scale of cinema of a different era, case in point Umrao Jaan (a Muzaffar Ali-film), when romance, classical dance, songs of heartbreak, tragic memoirs, and narrative drama were all in fashion. And above all, storytelling was itself a much-revered art form, one that had its takers in both cobbled lanes and the intricate corridors of palaces. The story of the brand is rooted in the archives of Awadh, its art and craft forms and is in a way, a tribute to the royals of yore. Cut to present times, it is also an elegant and contemporary fashion house, one that is in sync with the new generation. 

As Kotwara by Meera & Muzaffar Ali collaborated with Kishandas & Co., we got talking to Meera, Muzaffar, and Sama Ali on the coming together of the two heritage brands in a royal medley of couture and gems. Here are the excerpts from the interview.

Q: Tell us about how you started the brand.

It all started as a reflection of Muzaffar Ali’s first film Gaman, where he portrayed the loss that a family and a village (Kotwara) experienced when the protagonist (played by Farooq Sheikh) moved from his village to the city in search of a job. We started Kotwara as an experiment in this context of rural-to-urban migration, by reviving long-lost embroideries, to give local artisans dignified employment at their doorstep—‘dwar pe rozi’, in Kotwara, which is Muzaffar Ali’s ancestral state.

Q: What does the design process involve?

(Muzaffar) The design process starts when I start collecting and reflecting on things that inspire me. It could be pictures, costumes, history, architecture, art, or anything that invokes a creative response. It’s the process of reflection upon those things that helps one get an idea behind a collection. That idea, for me, is usually an amalgamation of several random elements that have been pulled together, which flow out when I put my pencil to paper. Just sifting through things on paper really helps gain clarity. Alternatively, you can start in the middle, with a collection of fabrics that may be the source of your inspiration. You can explore your way through them and bring them together in how you stylise them.

Q: Tell us about your latest collection.

(Sama) Inspiration, for me, comes from art and culture. The culture that I’m currently immersed in stems from the history of Kotwara and its design identity over the years. I enjoy reinterpreting some of my favourite archival elements in my own immediate context. And my context stems from my experience in London College of Fashion. I am fascinated with the romantic era and the fantasy genre, and I think these often come through in a lot of the things that the brand is making these days. A blend of the old with the new. With a small measure of fantasy. The latest pieces have come a long journey. A few years ago, I started collecting antique brocades on my trips to Varanasi with my dad. When we took it out as part of our collection last year, we wanted to age them slightly so the zari got a nice vintage touch, following that my parents and I worked out the embroidery details to accentuate the rich brocades... It was a lot of fun exploring various techniques in beading, aari, and zardozi.

Q: How have the designs changed from when it started to today?

(Muzaffar & Meera) Design is a journey, just like culture. It evolves with changing times and needs. What was the fashion norm in the 1800s or 1900s cannot be sustained in the current times. The challenge is that one cannot live in a bubble today. With our daughter Sama joining us, we have been able to bridge this gap and take that leap. Fortunately, she spends time understanding the ethos of Kotwara, its strengths in terms of embroideries and their elegant application, and takes it forward to today’s youth and their lifestyle. However, there are some evergreen silhouettes like the farshi and the shararas, which will never go away. Similarly, certain crafts such as the iconic chikankari, will never lose their appeal albeit in new forms. Kotwara chikan too has come a long way with interpretations in sheer organzas and chiffons though there is nothing like a comfortable cotton-voile chikan kurta.

Q: Who is the perfect Kotwara bride?

The Kotwara bride is self-assured and bold. She is worldly and compassionate. She wants to stand out. She values artisanship and is always in search for something unique. That’s why she comes to Kotwara. Kotwara by Meera & Muzaffar Ali

Q: What are this season’s bridal must-haves?

(Meera) Variety is the rule. Venture beyond the lehenga, such that each layer and look stands out and apart. Play with non-bridal colours as well.

Q: How did you style this shoot?

(Sama) I had Umrao Jaan at the back of my mind and I just tried to bring those nuances into the look.

All clothing, Kotwara by Meera & Muzaffar Ali.

All jewellery, Kishandas & Co.

Photograher: Shivam Pathak. 

Fashion stylist: Sama Ali.

Hair and makeup: Shreya Chadda.