Famed Jeweller Hemmerle's 125th Anniversary Collection Is A Delight For The Artsy Bride

Two brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle, once decided to take over a small company specialising in medals and orders for the Bavarian Royal family. The year was 1893 and they brought their unique ideas and style to the business, thus giving birth to the iconic jewellery brand that is Hemmerle. Christian Hemmerle, along with wife Yasmin and parents Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle, now lead this fourth generation, family-run business. Preserving traditional skills passed down through the decades, the brand believes in innovating and experimenting with newer techniques. “We strike a balance between blending the vocabulary of sculpture with the functional demands of jewellery design in today’s society,” says Christian Hemmerle. However, it is that utmost love and respect for materials used to create each piece, which sets the tone for their anniversary collection Hidden Treasures.

Hemmerle earrings in cameos, diamonds, white gold, and bronze.

“If we are using materials like ancient Egyptian artifacts or carved Chinese jade, we honour the material by not altering it but by designing around it.” It is this ethos that led them to the cellars of their Munich atelier where old embossing stamps were discovered and the inspiration behind the 125th anniversary collection was born. “Ten bold one-off pieces draw inspiration from shapes and forms found, transforming them into contemporary works through innovative material combinations, dedicated craftsmanship, and exceptional quality,” adds Christian. A commission from a client who detested flashy gems sparked Hemmerle’s creative concept. She chose Neoclassical, early 19th-century Berlin iron jewellery that were worn by patriotic Germans in place of gold that had been donated during the War of Liberation, 1813.

Hemmerle Pegasus Earrings in diamonds, aluminium, and white gold.

“My father therefore paired a diamond with iron creating an extraordinary juxtaposition of light and dark materials. The combination of a ‘common’ metal with a precious stone was unfamiliar, yet the iron band uniquely enhanced the diamond’s beauty. ‘Hidden Treasures’ also channels the same theme by using materials like iron, blackened silver, and midnight blue aluminum,” says Christian. So who is the quintessential Hemmerle muse? Since we as a brand have collectors from all over the world of all ages and nationalities, our muse would be one with a love for art and an eye for originality. And why not? For each piece is no less than a piece of art. The Pegasus earrings, for example, define the winged horse from Greek mythology that symbolises poetry and artistic inspiration. Blackened-silver emblems of Pegasus are studded with pavé diamonds and set on a midnight-blue background of anodised aluminum, while on the back of the earrings, diamonds subtly trace the astronomical sign of Pegasus. Another key piece from the collection would be the Star of the Order earrings, which drew inspiration from the Order of St. Gregory to honour the memory of Pope Gregory the Great who reigned in the Middle Ages.

Archival Hemmerle enamel book. Courtesy: Hemmerle.

In Hemmerle’s earrings, a segment of the star stamp used to create the original medal has been abstracted. Radiant diamond-encrusted earrings each have seven star-rays that move with the wearer. It is perhaps this keen eye for detail coupled with months, sometime even years, spent in the atelier with each piece, that sets Hemmerle apart. On being asked if he has a favourite piece from the newest collection, Christian Hemmerle is quick with his “no”. “We spend so much time with each piece that they almost become a part of us and it would be an injustice to select one over another.” Such is the power of a Hemmerle creation that King Maximilian II of Bavaria’s commission to make the Bavarian Maximilian Order in 1905, awarded for exceptional achievement in science and arts, continues till date.

Hemmerle earrings in sapphires, iron, and white gold.

Hemmerle earrings in cameos, diamonds, white gold, and bronze.

How do you add to this prestigious a legacy, we ask. “Jewellery is increasingly becoming more widely recognised as art and we now have the opportunity to use traditional platforms like biennales, exhibitions, and fairs to communicate. We hope our legacy will be bringing Hemmerle to a wider international public of art lovers,” signs off Christian. Hemmerle’s boutique on Maximilianstrasse in Munich opened in 1904 where it remains till today. An anniversary exhibition showcasing Hemmerle’s historic medals alongside their contemporary pieces is taking place this year at this iconic venue.

Assisted by Dishari Basu.