Why brides are mixing up the jewellery set
The matching necklace and earring set is making room for more eclectic combinations, from heirloom pieces with contemporary jewellery to mixing metals and unexpected silhouettes.
For the longest time, bridal jewellery has been about the set: a statement necklace accompanied by matching earrings, perhaps a maang tikka and bangles to complete the look. But as bridal dressing becomes more personal, brides are moving beyond the idea that every piece needs to belong to the same set. An heirloom necklace might be paired with contemporary diamond earrings, or a statement pair worn without a necklace at all.
Mixing jewellery isn't new, but the emphasis is shifting from coordination to individual expression. Rather than buying a complete set to complement a single outfit, brides are considering how pieces with different histories, finishes and design languages can work together. The aim is to build a jewellery wardrobe around pieces that can hold their own, while leaving room for unexpected combinations. Here's how to get the mix right.
The art of the unexpected pairing
An heirloom necklace doesn't need matching earrings to feel complete. Pairing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary silhouettes can give familiar pieces a new context without diminishing their heritage. Instead of replicating the necklace's motifs or finish, look for something that introduces a different perspective, whether it's an unusual shape, a contrasting texture or an unexpected gemstone.
“I think the beauty lies in the contrast,” says Keya Agarwal Badhalia, founder of KEYA by Adbhut. She recommends pairing an elaborate jadau necklace with sculptural earrings rather than trying to replicate its design. Her own work draws on the natural world, translating birds and marine creatures into unexpected forms through traditional techniques. For brides, this could mean pairing a conventional heirloom with earrings that feel almost like little sculptures.
Neha Roongta, founder of Neha Roongta Jewellery, suggests pairing polki or kundan necklaces with contemporary emerald, ruby or diamond accents. Complementary colours can connect the pieces without requiring identical stones, while antique gold finishes can sit alongside contemporary settings. The idea is to preserve the character of each piece rather than make everything look as though it was bought together.
When matching metals is no longer the rule
Yellow gold and white gold can work together, just as diamonds can be paired with coloured gemstones. Mixing finishes, stones and shapes adds depth to a bridal look, but the key is to establish a focal point rather than give every piece equal visual weight.
Aalika Parekh, co-founder of House of Yarané, recommends starting with a standout piece and building the rest of the look around it. “The trick is knowing when to stop,” she says. An elaborate necklace might work with elongated earrings or a striking stud, while brides who favour maximalist jewellery can experiment with two statement pieces. The choice depends on their personal style and how the pieces work together.
Proportion matters as much as colour. An elaborate choker paired with heavily embellished earrings can compete for attention, while a simpler neckline offers more room to experiment. The outfit, embroidery and hairstyle should inform the final combination, too. As Badhalia suggests, brides needn't be afraid of mixing metals, textures or techniques. A deliberate contrast can be more interesting than a perfectly coordinated look.
From wedding-day sets to a jewellery wardrobe
Breaking up the traditional set also changes how brides approach their jewellery investments. Instead of buying a separate combination for every function, they can build a collection of pieces that can be restyled across celebrations and beyond. A statement necklace might anchor the wedding look, while the same earrings can be worn with a cocktail outfit or sari long after the festivities.
Vikas Narnolia, co-founder of Myra Utsav, recommends versatile pieces such as diamond earrings, a polki necklace, a pendant or a bracelet. Detachable and adaptable designs offer further flexibility, allowing brides to reconfigure their jewellery rather than buy an entirely new set. Parekh similarly advocates transformable pieces, such as necklaces with interchangeable elements, that can be styled differently for different occasions.
Versatility, however, needn't mean playing it safe. A sculptural pair of earrings or an unusual necklace can be just as worthwhile an investment if it reflects the wearer's personality and works across outfits. As Badhalia puts it, “The aim isn't perfection or symmetry; it's finding a combination that feels distinctly theirs.”
Breaking up the bridal jewellery set isn't about abandoning tradition, but giving it room to evolve. Heirlooms can find new contexts, contemporary designs can sit alongside pieces passed down through generations, and wedding day purchases can become part of a longer wardrobe. The result is jewellery chosen not simply because it matches, but because each piece brings something of its own to the look.
Lead image: Myra Utsav, KEYA by Adbhut, House of Yarané
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