The 'modern maharani' edit: From pearls to potlis, the new era of regal bridal style

The modern Indian bride has a new moodboard, and it’s dipped in regal nostalgia. Gone are the days of cookie-cutter lehengas and over-the-top opulence. Today’s bride is rewriting tradition, pairing heirloom-inspired jewellery with experimental silhouettes and a whisper of global sensibility. She wants to look timeless but not dated; she is just as inspired by her grandmother’s vintage bridal portrait as she is by a Sabyasachi runway.

From Banarasi silks reimagined as corsets to statement pearl chokers and passa, the bridal lookbook is evolving into a celebration of contrasts. Think pearls with power shoulders, handwoven fabrics styled like couture, and age-old craft techniques shining through contemporary cuts. The result? A look that is equal parts royal, relevant, and refreshingly individual.

Here’s your guide to the statement pieces defining the “Modern Maharani” aesthetic in today's time—each one proof that the past and present can co-exist beautifully in a single ensemble.

The regal pearl choker

Once the hallmark of queens and courtesans, the pearl choker is finding its renaissance moment. Brides are swapping heavy kundan sets for layered pearls or sleek single-strand chokers edged with diamonds. It’s understated yet unmistakably regal—the kind of piece that complements everything from an ivory saree to a structured gown. It's the perfect accessory for the minimalist bride who still wants her look to whisper royalty.

The Banarasi corset

Meet the new-age heirloom. The Banarasi corset takes one of India’s most traditional weaves and transforms it into a bold, contemporary statement. Paired with silk skirts or tailored pants, it’s the perfect fusion of vintage textile and modern tailoring. Brides are styling them for pre-wedding soirées, cocktail nights, or even as a part of their mehendi ensemble. It’s power dressing with a cultural conscience—one that honours the loom while breaking sartorial boundaries.

The heirloom kamarbandh

Forget the dainty waist chain—the modern kamarbandh is a showstopper in its own right. Think sculpted metalwork, vintage-inspired gemstones, and layered textures that elevate even the simplest drape. Styled over organza sarees or monochrome lehengas, this accessory cinches the waist and adds structure, turning any look into a royal moment. Many brides are repurposing their family’s antique pieces, giving heritage jewellery a fresh context that also feels emotional.

The statement passa

Once a Mughal-inspired ornament worn by queens, the passa—a beautiful side headpiece—is back in bridal fashion, but with a twist. Modern versions come in asymmetric designs, layered pearls, or even studded with emeralds and uncut diamonds. Brides are pairing them with slick buns or modern veils, adding a regal touch. The passa is no longer just an heirloom accessory—it’s the finishing touch for brides who want to channel vintage glamour without going full traditional.

The velvet potli

Nothing says old-world luxury like velvet—and it’s making a lush comeback through the humble potli. Once an accessory reserved for regal soirées, today’s brides are pairing embroidered velvet potlis with their lehengas as statement mini-bags. From hand-embroidered zardozi motifs to jewel-encrusted drawstrings, these pieces add texture and a touch of drama to even minimalist bridal looks. It’s a nod to vintage opulence but with the practicality of a fashion-forward bride who loves her accessories. Whether styled with gold tissue saris or contemporary pastel lehengas, the velvet potli perfectly balances nostalgia and new-age charm.

The modern bride wants nostalgia with nuance and grandeur with grace. The modern maharani is self-assured, sentimental, and unapologetically stylish.

Lead image: Alia Bhatt/Instagram

Also read: The art and soul of West India’s bridal adornments

Also read: Embroidered and embellished handbags to style your outfits this wedding season