John Galliano's SS'18 Maison Margiela Artisanal Outing Can Be Termed As 'Dishevelled Elegance'
“When I returned to designing, I was taken aback by how everyone was seeing shows through their phones. Freezing the glamour of the accidental, the magical moment.” – John Galliano
This season, John Galliano achieved an impossible feat – he gave us a glimpse into the future. Yes, you read that right! Guests seated at the Maison Margiela Artisanal show in the brand’s headquarters were asked to use flash photography throughout the entire show. Lo, and behold, his deconstructed clothes lit up in technicolours, transforming entirely dark outfits into fairy-tale fireworks of colours – the result was magical.
So far, social media has impacted fashion houses by forcing them to alter sets to make them Instagram friendly, but this show was a long step further, affecting the actual R&D of the clothes and materials. He filtered through those hidden colours and effects into his collection, creating a sensory overload of transparent PVC. There were transparent polyurethane coats glinting and winking in refractive lights, layers of tapestry and jacquard in vivid neon colorations, cloche hats in bold shades, and a parasol to match them all. A black trench coat was asymmetrically spliced into half, the first half cut in a sheer fabric to reveal a slither of skin beneath and the other in glistening patent leather. Another trench coat, ripped to a dress, was created in half-lining and half-silk jersey, and worn with a minty green leather bustier.
The reaction to illusionary visuals that happen when holographic material is layered over polka dots was all factored in. Slip dresses were integrated into parkas and the wadding of a transparent puffer jacket was composed of hand-painted feathers. A blue technicolour anorak gown seamlessly blended its shredded hem into the twisted copper pleats of an evening skirt. Such was the dexterity of design execution – a gorgeous jacquard gown under a black fishnet dress was paired with a PVC corset, which was both complex and wildly inventive. And there were crystals sewn into evening caps, replacing earrings or bungee cords used as a necktie to fasten raw silk dresses.
In a season of newbies and strategic placements in haute couture houses, the definition of high fashion is more complex than ever. But the complex, dishevelled collection that John Galliano sent out was his usual striking vision of craziness. And while his progressive take on couture may not be in line with everyone’s idea of what constitutes as “normal”, for the avant-garde fashion lovers (like me!) it was mesmerizing.