Fashion’s greatest impresarios are giving pearls a grand makeover

In the early 1920s, the iconic Coco Chanel created a fashion revolution when she transformed the little black dress—the uniform of the working class— into a status symbol of liberation by draping it with strings of freshwater pearls, like dripping fronds of a wisteria. Chanel’s signature pearl necklaces became synonymous with the pleasures of casual chic and timeless style, making the adornments accessible to a broader range of women. Even today, you can see designers across the world use these micro-mini totems of desire in their deft-cutting creations.

Case in point: Giorgio Armani’s fall 2024 haute couture show featured swallows of pearls embellished on bias-cut velvet gowns and pearl-beaded, art-deco columns with stand-away collars. For Balmain’s spring 2019 couture show, designer Olivier Rousteing crafted bulbous leather pearls to encircle a model’s thighs and shoulders; he made jutting hip buttresses that stuck out from the side under enormous pearl-embellished pink bows, shredded denim to its inner skeleton, and then embroidered it with crystals and pearls

But how did these emblems of embellishments cause a ripple effect in the fashion industry?

The history of pearls can be traced all the way back to the ancient Egyptian civilisation, when both Cleopatra and Nefertiti wore pearl jewellery as a symbol of wealth and beauty. During the Mughal rule in India in the early 16th century, pearls reached new heights of fashion and luxury, as they were used extensively in royal jewellery, clothing and ceremonial regalia. 

The showstoppers

“In Indian culture, pearls symbolise purity, love, wealth and power,” say designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, known for weaving decadence into cloth. “They are often associated with the moon and water and are believed to bring good luck and prosperity.”

Crediting themselves for the resurgence of this trend in India, Abu-Sandeep’s 2024 ‘Pearl Collection’—lehengas with tiers of ruffles moulded around the torso like floating nimbuses; saris embroidered with cumulus pearls like glamorous miniature ball bearings that render weightless on the skin—resulted in a social media meltdown.

“We have always been inspired by the pristine and pure beauty of pearls, so the intent was always to create the ultimate couture collection that boasts exceptional hand craftsmanship and original design,” they say to Brides Today.

Manish Malhotra’s recent show, at Dubai Fashion Week early in February, featured model Adriana Lima walking the runway in a pearl-beaded corset gown. The show was received with critical acclaim, and many credited the veteran couturier for moving beyond the binary.

Across the spectrum, there’s Gaurav Gupta’s signature cosmic swirls that send the imagination spiralling up to the Milky Way. His penchant for amalgamating gravity-defying craftsmanship with Indian design sensibilities has made him a revered couturier—and not just in India but also in Paris, where he’s been showcasing his collections over the past few years.

“Pearls became much more than just embellishments for our Indian Couture Spring/ Summer 2025 collection,” says Gupta, who credits his mother for his fascination with pearls. “For her, pearls were more than just jewellery; they felt like a tradition passed down through generations.”

His sculptural silhouettes for the couture collection feature 3D embroidery on diaphanous lehengas (in shades of ivory and dove grey) and saris that upend the very laws of physics. “In terms of design,” he explains, “we wanted to give the pearls a 3D effect, so they almost feel like they’re alive, flowing or dripping like light moving through space.”

Seema Gujral, another industry veteran, emphasises that when working with pearls, the aim is to amplify the garment’s story rather than overwhelm it. For her past collections, which draw inspiration from themes like celestial romance and Mughal artistry, each pearl is meticulously hand-sewn to seamlessly enhance the design—whether gently cascading down a blouse or adorning a lehenga with intricate floral motifs.

“The placement of pearls is carefully planned so that the embellishments are evenly distributed. This ensures that the garment is comfortable to wear for long hours,” she explains.

Adriana Lima closes the show for Manish Malhotra at Dubai Fashion Week 2025

A celebrity favourite

Celebrities play an instrumental role in communicating the role of the designer to the world. In Hollywood, actor Audrey Hepburn became an emblem of elegance, wearing pearls in films such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s, solidifying them as a quintessential symbol of sophistication.

Also recall the theme of the 2023 Met Gala. Titled ‘Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,’ it celebrated the work of the late ponytailed legend, particularly his monumental contributions to the House of Chanel in all its pearl encrusted glory. Whether it was Kim Kardashian in ropes of Schiaparelli pearls (all 50,000 of them, painstakingly hand-embroidered by the petites mains) atop a flesh-toned corset, or rapper Lizzo, who wore a black, pearl-strung Chanel number with asymmetric cutouts—the white iridescent beads cemented their position on the red carpet

Then there was actor Deepika Padukone’s pearlescent sari designed by Abu-Sandeep at the 2022 Cannes Film Festival. It featured a collar truncating up the neckline with 1,200 pearls. “An actor and celebrity of her calibre brings special awareness and attention to the garment,” the designers share.

Bridal beads & the boys 

Over the years, pearls insouciantly also found their way into bridal attires, making them the perfect choice for brides and grooms-to-be. Shweta Kapur, founder of fashion label 431-88, agrees.

“They’re the ultimate symbol of beauty and sophistication in Indian weddings,” says Kapur, who wore a sari in a frosted ivory shade, hemmed with teardrop pearls, coupled with a pearl-embellished bustier blouse, for her after-party wedding look. “While designing my look, I wanted to incorporate pearls in a way that wasn’t overtly traditional but still felt thoughtful.”

In menswear, too, pearls have increasingly become a growing symbol of self-expression, subverting the traditional association with ladylike elegance. “They can add a subtle yet luxurious touch to men’s couture,” says Swapna Anumolu, founder of fashion label Mishru, whose collections feature high-hemmed jackets and sherwanis embroidered with iridescent pearls mimicking tiny dioramas of Eden. “We love incorporating hints of micro-pearl embellishments in our garments, from the base of the embroidery to highlighting key design elements.”

Once relegated to the world of conservative elegance, pearls have evolved into one of fashion’s most coveted, paradoxical symbols. They straddle the line between hard and soft, timeless and contemporary, rare and iconic, offering a rare duality that allows the wearer to navigate both tradition and modernity with ease. Their appeal lies not only in their aesthetic but also in the power they represent—a symbol of resilience and beauty, made both alluring and accessible.

This article originally appeared in Brides Today, January-March 2025 print edition.

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