Crafting a design story: 9 of the country's renowned couturiers showcase their signature style and what makes them unique
From sophisticated and elegant to edgy and unconventional, these pieces are a work of art.
India’s master couturiers come together to celebrate exquisite craftsmanship, the country's cultural heritage, and the ethos of their eponymous labels. Here, we spotlight some of their one-of-a-kind ensembles.
Suneet Verma
“This particular ensemble hails from my Couture’23 collection, and exemplifies the Suneet Varma design aesthetic and DNA. Sensual, edgy, and just a bit unexpected, the corseted blouse is draped in a deconstructed form—far from the conventional silhouette. Embellished with garnet-hued sequins, beads, and crystals, this Suneet Varma garment presents an element of surprise... Like any other. My clientele expects a modern interpretation of Indian couture, which is exactly what I offer.”
Corset Blouse with Deep Garnet and Sequin Hand Embroidered Drape Lehenga, price upon request, Suneet Varma. Elaheh Earrings, ₹45,000, Cyra Ring, ₹10,000, both Aulerth.
Abhinav Mishra
“This resplendent piece is from my bridal collection...Tying a knot of traditions with deep hues of red—a colour often associated with auspiciousness, love, prosperity, and new beginnings. The sheesha plays an imperative role across the garments that I design. The timelessness and versatility of mirror work draws me towards the craft, and my aim shall remain to blend this method in contemporary silhouettes.”
Begum Red Embellished Lehenga with Zari, Resham, Sequins and Signature Mirror Work Detailing, price upon request, Abhinav Mishra. Antique Jadau Necklace and Magarchurani Earrings by NSJ, price upon request, Neety Singh Jewellery.
Rahul Mishra
“At our atelier, we aspire to retain traditional Indian techniques of hand embroidery by translating them into a global, contemporary voice...The Tree of Life lehenga skirt embodies this ethos; it imagines a decadent Indian bride in glistening gold. This look is versatile, comfortable, and independent of trends—intended to be worn more than just once...Soon becoming a mainstay in your occasion wear wardrobe. In addition, our signature two and three dimensional hand embroidery ensures employment and empowerment for the crafts community, which is an important part of the Rahul Mishra family.”
3D Hand Embroidered Tree of Life Lehenga, Blouse, and Dupatta, price upon request, Rahul Mishra. 18KT Polki Necklace Set Studded with Ruby, Russian Emerald, and Rose Cut Diamonds, price upon request, The House of MBj.
Varun Bahl
“This crimson-red lehenga from my New Leaf Couture ’22 collection draws inspiration from flora and fauna. It features a fully-embellished corset blouse and a multi-hued floral lehenga with myriad techniques, including sequin work, bugle beads, caviar beads, and crystals—embodying a sense of finesse and fearlessness that comes naturally to a Varun Bahl muse.”
New Leaf Red Embroidered Lehenga with a Corset Blouse, price upon request, Varun Bahl. Polki Set in Uncut and Full Cut Diamonds with Russian Emerald and Pearls in 18CT Gold, price upon request, AKM Mehrasons Jewellers.
JJ Valaya
“I’ve been a couturier for more than three decades now, and I believe in one very basic principle: true luxury must stand the test of timelessness—and continue to remain relevant in current times. And while this may seem like a contradiction, it is where the magic of art lies. This particular garment is an heirloom piece... And I would imagine it being passed down generations, just as our other ensembles. The silhouette plays around with the fundamental colour donned by Indian brides...I have worked on it by employing a combination of antiquated metals, semi-precious stones, crystals, and beads. This piece in question took over six months to create, and comes from the JJ Valaya Muse collection.”
Handworked Lehenga, Blouse, and Dupatta in Fine Silk with Resham, Antiquated Metals, Semi-Precious Stones, Crystals, and Beads, price upon request, JJ Valaya. JJ Valaya Fine Jewellery, price upon request, JJ Valaya x Jagdish Jewellers.
Shivan & Narresh
“This intricate piece exemplifies Shivan & Narresh Couture—from the hand-moulded resin elements which have been hand-painted for an opalescent effect to the finely crafted French-knotted bustier. Our signature style is bold, inventively new, and sophisticated.”
Periwinkle Elysian Lehenga with Embellished Bustier, ₹7,68,950, Shivan & Narresh. Numisma Studded Choker, ₹23,500, Numisma Charm Necklace, ₹28,000, Numisma Necklace Stash, ₹16,500, and Numisma Duo Earrings, ₹11,000, all Shivan and Narresh x Aulerth.
Amit Aggarwal
“This exquisite ensemble perfectly represents our design ethos—which amalgamates age-old craft with innovative materials to create timeless, unique pieces of wearable art. The lehenga skirt, crafted using our signature polymer, is paired with a hand embroidered, structured, and corded blouse in bright fuchsia, with elaborate, playful sleeves. This piece is one that sparks unbridled joy and hope, and truly celebrates the wearer.”
Fuchsia Hand Embroidered Structured Blouse and Lehenga, price upon request, Amit Aggarwal. Diamond and Yellow Sapphire Choker, price upon request, Amaris by Prerna Rajpal.
Anju Modi
“Clothes are merely a means of expressing what the soul desires to communicate...Fashion possesses the power to render human emotions in an artistic manner and moreover, narrate stories. This ruby-silk mashru lehenga is designed through the eyes of a contemporary bride with traditional values at her heart. It is extremely lightweight, when compared to conventional bridal wear, and the vibrant colour palette lends a playful touch. The double-layered design construction evokes regalia...and fulfills the label’s signature style of creating elegant ensembles that defy the boundaries of time.”
Mashru Silk Hand Embroidered Sage Green Blouse, Zardozi and Threadwork Ruby Lehenga, Foil-Printed Silk Organza Dupatta, and Silk Hand Embroidered Dushala, ₹4,75,000, Anju Modi. Ruby and Kundan Maang Tikka with Pearls, Kundan Haathphool, and Ruby and Kundan Choker with Emerald Drops, prices upon request, all Shri Paramani Jewels.
Sukhet Dhir
“I commenced my design journey 13 years ago...Four years back, we launched our collection 'He For She', and the pantsuit—which was one of the first garments designed for this line-up—fast became a brand staple. I employed traditional Indian textiles and turned to silk brocades that run the risk of being ostentatious, only to mute the sheen with professional washing which gave way to a silhouette that can be worn on multiple occasions, and even as separates. We are looking to modernise our craft, in lieu of westernising it...Retaining the soul of our cultural heritage.”
On Akshara Balakrishna: Rana Blazer, Silk Brocade, Red Fresco, ₹58,650, Bootcut Trousers, Silk Brocade, Red Fresco, ₹38,650, Suket Dhir. The Higher Ground Choker, price upon request, Amaris by Prerna Rajpal. On Parvesh Mudgal: Rana Blazer, Silk Brocade, Emerald Fresco, ₹58,650, Bootcut Trousers, Silk Brocade, Emerald Fresco, ₹38,650, Suket Dhir. Polki Chandbali, price upon request, Amaris by Prerna Rajpal.