What it takes to make jewellery that stands the test of time and style

Not often do we talk about jewellery as art; the craftsmanship is often lost in the tag and sparkle of it all. But India is steeped in the history of intricate jewellery making, whether we talk about the deft handwork of meenakari jewels or the careful curation of polki stones. Brands like Aurus and Moi celebrate this tradition perfected over centuries with a modern outlook to make jewellery that resonates with the buyers of today, who no longer reserve jewellery for special occasions, and bring them timeless, versatile pieces. We speak with the founders, Puja and Kunal Shah, about their vision, inspiration, and legacy. 

Brides Today: Jewellery, while evolving over time, has always been an integral part of Indian culture. How do the creations at Aurus stand out and stay relevant for the wearer of today? 
 
Puja Shah: At Aurus and Moi, we essentially do fine jewellery, which is primarily gold, a little bit of silver, diamonds, polki, precious stones, and pearls. We don’t use plastic or leather. We focus on designs that are relevant, classic, and timeless. But we are designing it in a way that it becomes relevant to our lifestyle, the kind of clothes we wear, and the kind of people we are. 
 
Up until now, the jewellery that our parents collected was only meant to be worn for weddings and other special occasions, and it was okay for the lifestyle they had. However, things have changed today. Whether I am attending a Diwali function, a birthday party, or just stepping out in a simple white shirt, I want to use jewellery to elevate my look.
 
BT: Puja, can you tell me a little about your work in the Brooklyn Museum? What made you leave biochemistry and come back to India to pursue design? 
 
PS: I did not see myself spending time in laboratories behind a microscope. While I was interested in genetics, I knew I wanted to pursue something artistic. In a lot of ways, it goes back to my family. My grandmothers, my mother, and my aunts were all very fascinated by clothes and jewellery. They were not trained in art jewellery or textiles, but they have an inherent appreciation and understanding for fine jewels, designs, and patterns, which has been passed down to me.

Kunal Shah: There is nothing better than appreciating these finer things. It’s very intuitive. 
 
PS: Let me give you an example. When I got married, I wore a traditional red and white panetar sari. And my mother picked out this gold kaliganthi necklace for me. I didn’t like it much, but she insisted it was a beautiful piece to wear at a wedding, so I agreed. These kinds of conversations that highlighted and appreciated the craftsmanship of the jewellery pieces constantly took place while I was growing up, and I always absorbed them. That’s where a lot of my inspiration also stems from. 

 
BT: You’ve used the word ‘mindful’ to describe Aurus. What does mindfulness mean to you?

KS: I think mindfulness means that we are consumers first. We always look at our pieces from the viewpoint of the buyer. We ask ourselves—where is this coming from? Why are we making this? Would we wear this? It all started when my sister was getting married and we were shopping for jewellery. This was long before Aurus was born. Every store we went to had the same type of pieces at exorbitant prices. We saw the gap in this extremely homogenised industry. Puja made bridal jewellery for my sister because she didn’t want to wear what was available. Our journey as consumers has made us mindful of our buyers’ needs.

PS: I am also extremely mindful of how I want our pieces to look. For example, I know I am going to do pearls or emeralds and mix it up with a few other stones. I am very mindful of the colour and lustre of emeralds I want to use. It can’t be any green, it has to be the right green. Every piece and every design is carefully crafted like a jigsaw puzzle. There are curated techniques and materials that make our pieces what they are. 
 
BT: It is very interesting that you describe yourselves as the left and right brain of your brand. What do you mean by that?  
 
KS: So, I think my background as an engineer, coupled with the fact that I grew up in a Gujarati family, has trained me to build scalable businesses. I am always thinking about sales and brand-building, while Puja looks after the creative and designing aspects. Her validation doesn’t come from how many people bought our product; she is doing this for the joy of making the jewellery. And that is a team, right? This is how we grow.

 
BT: Apart from heritage and family, what are the other things that inspire you to create jewellery? 
 
PS: There is so much that has already been done in jewellery. At Aurus, we are not making anything that has never been seen before. But I try to give it my own spin to make it more relevant. I put myself in my buyers’ shoes and ask myself—what would I like to wear on a festive day or at a wedding? Would the piece go with a certain outfit? Sometimes, I like to take inspiration from the previous eras; I am just fascinated by the late 1800s to the early 1900s. It was such a pivotal time in our history. 
 
I don’t like template designs. I need some element that brings in irregularity. Pieces that are machine-made are too cookie-cutter. But when it is made by hand, imperfections are introduced through the karigari and that makes each piece unique and inherently beautiful.  
 
BT: Today, all designers are giving credit back to their artisans. This was missing for so long. How do you pay homage to your karigars? What is your relationship with them? 
 
KS: We have about seven karigars, who do most of our work. They have been making jewellery for generations and are selective about who they work for. You have to build a relationship with them because they work on trust. We give them a fair wage, on time, for the work they are putting in. That is the best way we can pay homage to them. They put their hearts into this work and do a brilliant job. Our jewellery is not mass-produced. It’s handmade, more nuanced, and also time-consuming. And giving karigars the respect they deserve is the best way to give them credit. 

 
BT: There has been a lot of talk about timeless jewellery and quiet luxury. What does that mean for Aurus? 
 
PS: All the pieces I design are pieces that I would wear on a regular basis. We are not into loud, over-the-top pieces. I believe jewellery is a part of your complete outfit, and shouldn’t overshadow the clothes. Everything needs to be in synergy and in the right proportion. Jewellery is not a way to show your bank balance. Even if you can afford an exorbitantly-priced piece, if a simple necklace and studs does the word for your outfit, you shouldn’t force the heavy piece in. Sometimes, a small piece with the finest fulki or some emeralds looks better and more elegant. I believe that dainty and discreet always works better than a loud piece in the wrong place. That is quite a luxury. 
 
For instance, if I have designed a diamond piece with an emerald in the centre, I put one with a bit of semi-transparency that has a little crack inside. I don’t use a stark green stone that yells emerald. It has to be the real deal and not a placeholder. 
 
BT: What is your personal jewellery style?
 
PS: All of Aurus and Moi is my personal style. Of course, Aurus jewellery is a bit more elaborate. When we were younger, we could only wear jewellery to weddings. But now there are events to attend or festivals or even just a friend’s party. And while most people wear costume jewellery for these occasions, I could never see myself doing that. My work allows me to make dainty pieces for my own pleasure.