From 'shakha pola' to 'choora': the tales behind the bridal bangles of India

There’s something timeless about the sound of bangles—that soft, musical jingle that follows a bride through her wedding rituals, and long after, into her new home. In India, bangles aren’t just jewellery; they are symbols of love, prosperity and the start of a new life. Across the country, each region has its own set of bangles that tell stories of identity, tradition, and emotion. Whether they are carved from ivory, made of glass, or crafted in gold, these circles of beauty carry generations of meaning within them.

Let’s take a journey across India through the bangles that adorn its brides.

The green glass bangles of Maharashtra

In Maharashtra, green isn’t a colour of fertility and of life itself. The Maharashtrian bride wears stacks of green glass bangles, or 'bangdi' as they call it, often paired with gold patlya (thicker gold bangles), symbolising new beginnings, prosperity, and harmony. The green glass signifies fertility and growth, while the gold represents wealth and strength in marriage.

The 'shakha pola' of Bengal

In Bengal, a bride’s wrists tell a tale of purity, strength, and deep love. The shakha (white conch shell bangle) and pola (red coral bangle) are worn together—one representing purity and sanctity, the other passion and love. These bangles are gifted to the bride by her mother and are first worn during a sacred ritual before the wedding, typically after they have been sanctified in holy water. Once she’s married, a Bengali bride rarely removes them—they are a sign of her marital status.

The 'choora' of Punjab

Vibrant, striking, and steeped in emotion, the choora is perhaps one of the most instantly recognisable bridal bangle traditions in India. The Punjabi bride wears a set of red and white (or ivory) bangles, usually made of ivory or plastic, that are gifted to her by her maternal uncle and aunt during the choora ceremony. Traditionally, the bride wears 21 bangles on each arm, often tied with kaleere—golden ornaments that dangle beautifully as she moves her hands. The choora symbolises good luck and fertility and is worn for a period after the wedding, usually from 40 days to even a year. 

The glass bangles of South India

In states like Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh, bangles play a melodic and auspicious role in a bride’s life. Pacha (green bangles) and bangaru (gold bangles) are often worn together—the blend of glass and gold symbolising a harmonious balance between fragility and strength. Before the wedding, a ceremony is held where women and relatives adorn the bride’s hands with colourful glass bangles, singing traditional songs. The ceremony celebrates her femininity, fertility, and the arrival of joy in her life. 

The ivory and silver bangles of Rajasthan and Gujarat

In Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat, bridal bangles go beyond adornment—they are symbols of lineage and cultural pride. Here, brides wear chooda made from ivory or bone, known locally as hathi daant ki chudi. In Rajasthan, these bangles can reach from the wrist to almost the elbow, creating a striking visual paired with heavy bridal jewellery and traditional lehenga odhnis.

In Gujarat, brides often pair ivory or white bangles with red glass ones, reflecting both purity and passion. The bangles are believed to protect the couple from evil eyes and to bring good fortune. Even in modern weddings, many brides incorporate these pieces as an ode to their heritage, blending tradition with contemporary design.

A tradition that lives on

In a country as diverse as India, no two bridal wrists tell the same story. Yet, they are all bound by the same circle. Whether it’s the soft clinking of green glass in a Maharashtrian household or the rhythmic chime of red coral in a Bengali courtyard, bangles remain more than ornaments. They are memories you wear, a celebration of beginnings, and an unbroken circle of love that endures through generations.

Lead image: Ankita Lokhande/Instagram and Yash Raj Films Talent/Instagram

Inside images: Mouni Roy/Instagram and Rhea Kapoor/Instagram

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