A guide to the bridal jewellery traditions of East and North-East India
From Bengal’s shakha-pola bangles to Assam’s golden motifs of nature, every Eastern bride wears her culture with pride and artistry.
If there’s one region that brings art, symbolism, and storytelling together in jewellery, it’s India’s East and North-East. Here, adornment goes far beyond aesthetics. It’s poetry in gold and silver, rooted in local mythology, nature, and craft.
Across Bengal, Odisha, and the seven sisters, bridal jewellery traditions are as diverse as their landscapes. Some shimmer in red and gold, others gleam in ivory and brass, but all celebrate femininity, heritage, and community in their own unique ways.
Let's have a look at how East and North-East India transform jewellery into emotion.
West Bengal: The magic of shakha-pola
A Bengali bride is a vision of elegance. Her red Banarasi saree, white mukut (head crown), and striking jewellery combine to create one of the most iconic bridal looks in India.
In Bengal, gold reigns supreme. The most significant pieces include the chur, paati haar (flat gold necklace), ratanchur (hand harness with rings), and tikli (forehead ornament). Each piece is detailed with floral or filigree motifs that reflect Bengal’s artistic heritage.
The shakha-pola—white conch shell bangles and red coral bangles—is the emotional centrepiece. These are worn after the wedding to symbolise marital bliss, while the loha or noa (iron bangle wrapped in gold) represents strength and protection.
Odisha: Temple jewellery and intricate silverwork
Odisha’s jewellery traditions are closely tied to its temple art and deep spiritual symbolism. Brides here often wear filigree jewellery—delicate, lace-like designs handcrafted in gold and silver, known locally as tarakasi. The art originated in Cuttack and is considered one of the finest jewellery crafts in the country.
A traditional Odia bridal look includes necklaces inspired by temple motifs, large jhumkas, chandbalis, armlets, and waistbands. The jewellery often carries images of gods, animals, or natural elements, blending devotion with beauty. Gold is prominent, but silver too has deep cultural significance—especially in anklets, toe rings, and hair ornaments.
Assam: The glow of nature and tradition
Assamese bridal jewellery is unlike any other—it’s understated yet radiant, crafted not for extravagance but for elegance. The pieces, made primarily from gold, are inspired by nature and local folklore.
Some of the most famous designs include the Jonbiri (moon-shaped pendant), Dugdugi (heart-shaped pendant), Gamkharu (wide bracelet), and Loka Paro (two pigeons facing each other, symbolising love). What makes them distinct is their handcrafted work—gold sheets shaped and engraved by hand rather than machine.
Assamese brides usually pair these heritage pieces with their signature Mekhela Sador, often in shades of ivory and red. The look is refined, graceful, and deeply symbolic of Assamese identity.
Manipur: The charm of handwoven beauty
In Manipur, bridal looks reflect simplicity, spirituality, and culture. Manipuri brides often wear the Potloi, a traditional cylindrical skirt decorated with mirrors, sequins, and embroidery. Their jewellery complements this attire perfectly—light, elegant, and filled with meaning.
Typical Manipuri bridal ornaments include simple gold necklaces, jhumkas, ear cuffs, and headpieces adorned with beads and shells. The Kokyet, a traditional headgear or veil, is also embellished with gold and coral, adding a regal touch.
Meghalaya and Nagaland: Earthy, bold, and beautifully tribal
In Meghalaya and Nagaland, jewellery is an art of identity. It tells stories of tribe, ancestry, and nature. The materials might not always be gold or silver, but they are rich in cultural value.
In Meghalaya, Khasi brides wear the Jainsem and adorn themselves with coral, amber, and gold beads. The most iconic piece is the Ryndia necklace, made of layers of red coral and gold, representing wealth and womanhood.
In Nagaland, brides often wear jewellery made from brass, shells, beads, and stones, passed down as heirlooms. The bold, layered necklaces and earrings carry clan symbols, making them deeply personal and powerful.
Tripura and Arunachal Pradesh: Stories in silver and coral
In Tripura, bridal jewellery reflects the influence of both tribal and Bengali culture. Brides wear gold necklaces and traditional chokers with floral motifs, often paired with silver anklets and ornate earrings. Simplicity and symmetry define their look, bringing together modern and traditional aesthetics.
In Arunachal Pradesh, jewellery takes inspiration from the region’s rich tribal diversity. Coral, turquoise, and silver beads are commonly used, with brides wearing multi-layered necklaces and pendants carved from conch shells or ivory substitutes. These are not just ornaments; they are markers of tribe, age, and status, often handmade by local artisans.
The colours—bright reds, oranges, and blues—add vibrancy to the bridal ensemble, blending beautifully with the woven fabrics that define Arunachali bridal attire.
What unites the East and North-East’s bridal jewellery is its heart. Each region, whether Bengal or Nagaland, celebrates adornment not as luxury but as a legacy. The materials may differ—gold, silver, coral, shell, or bead—but the sentiment remains the same: every piece carries a story of ancestry, artistry, and love.
Lead image: @bipashabasu/Instagram and @linlaishram/Instagram
Also read: A guide to the traditional wedding adornments of North Indian brides
Also read: From 'shakha pola' to 'choora': the tales behind the bridal bangles of India