9 Jewellery Designers On Their Favourite Piece of Jewellery
From necklaces featuring a 100-carat Columbian emerald, Basra pearls, and responsibly-sourced diamonds, to a masterpiece created for the film Padmaavat, here’s a look at some truly special pieces of jewellery, from the brands loved by all.
PART 2: Brides Today Digital asked nine of India’s biggest jewellery houses to reveal one favourite piece each, from their own collections (not an easy feat, you would agree). From necklaces featuring a 100-carat Columbian emerald, Basra pearls, and responsibly-sourced diamonds, to a masterpiece created for the film Padmaavat, here’s a look at some truly special pieces of jewellery, from the brands loved by all.
STRENGTH OF A WOMAN
“Handcrafted in 22K gold for the film Padmaavat, the ‘Goddess necklace’ takes inspiration from the beauty of Rajasthani royal jewellery,” shares Abhishek Rastogi, Head of Design at the jewellery division of Titan Company.
Each of the delicate kundan units is inspired by the intricate floral motifs of Rajasthani art, and there are five beautiful miniature paintings in the medallions. “Each of them is an incarnation of Devi as ‘shakti’, a personification of the divine feminine power of creation, preservation, and destruction. An age-old artform, these miniature watercolours have been painstakingly created on handmade paper, using crushed natural minerals. They have been encased in sapphire crystal, lined with takkar ka kaam and moti gheri on the borders,” he explains. The necklace was crafted by a well-orchestrated team of seven karigars, who worked tirelessly on it for over three months. In the movie, Deepika Padukone wears this necklace when her character is introduced as the new bride to the temple priest, who tries to gauge her strength of intellect. “We wanted to create something that conveys her spirit of character. The miniature paintings symbolise the Supreme Being as her guide and protector in her married life. They also emphasised her purity, strength, and courage,” Abhishek explains.
The jewellery designer recommends this piece for a bridal trousseau. “It is also perfect as a family heirloom, to pass down over generations,” he states.
“The necklace can be paired beautifully with fusion lehengas, saris, or gowns in pastel as well as jewelled tones. It sits very well on the neck, due to its fabric-like flexibility, and is perfect for the modern bride planning to make a statement,” he adds.
‘Goddess necklace’ on Deepika Padukone
THE THRILL OF GREEN
Russian emeralds, uncut diamonds, and natural pearls make this heritage necklace and earrings set a stunning addition to any trousseau. As Sonu Jain, Owner of Suncity Jewels explains, “Emeralds have that unique quality about them that makes them the most expensive stones, which is why women prefer wearing them as rings. We began to experiment with the idea of making them more suited to the modern girl. Russian Emeralds was the answer—they have a contemporary appeal to them, while being affordable, and are perfect for the modern woman.”
What makes this set special is both its size, and the fact that it can be paired with most outfits, due to its soft, pastel colour. “This one is a stunner, and it can be worn to almost every occasion. It can be paired with Indian clothes, and also works as the perfect statement piece for an Indo-western outfit,” she shares. The best part? The necklace and earrings work great as separates, too. “One thing is certain—this is sure to get you many compliments!” says Sonu.
A REGAL AFFAIR
“This multi-layered necklace has been crafted with uncut diamonds and rubies, each individually sculpted to suit the design, and is set in 24K gold,” explains Manushi Singh, Director of Rare Heritage. “It is the perfect expression of grandeur, style, poise, and elegance with a dash of drama for the bride-to-be.”
The design takes inspiration from the majestic jewellery worn by erstwhile royalty, and belongs to the Baroque Collection of the brand’s couture and fine jewellery line, TARIFA. “It is the modern interpretation of a bygone era. We imagine it being the ideal choice for the bride who is graceful and intellectual, yet playful in spirit. She is someone who would like to waltz down the Hall of Mirrors in the Palace of Versailles, wearing a multi-layered couture dress, and adorned with rubies and uncut diamonds,” Manushi shares.
She recommends this remarkable necklace be worn by the bride on her special day, teamed with an elegant, couture outfit.
A TRIBAL ADAPTATION
“This statement necklace is made with Basra pearls, small, gold beads from Aligarh, and a Rajasthani-style pendant called mandaliya,” explains jewellery designer Sangeeta Boochra who created this piece for her eponymous brand.
It also features kundan-diamond polki and Afghani turquoise in Bikaneri work, set in 22k gold, by hand. The peacock motif on it symbolises peace and wealth. And the tassel has been handwoven from silk thread.
Elaborating on the unique pendant, Sangeeta shares, “The mandaliya is one of the most popular pieces of tribal jewellery from Rajasthan and Gujarat, which is worn by both men and women of the region. It is seen in many iterations, such as pendants, bajubandhs, bracelets, and earrings. While it is usually made in silver, I have adapted it in gold.”
The piece has been inspired by her travels to the interiors of India, where she observed and collected design ideas to create this necklace. “It is perfect for weddings, evening functions, or any formal occasion,” she says.
LADY IN RED
“One of my favourite pieces is this cuff made with bright-red ruby beads, lined alternately with rows of brilliant cut, round diamonds, and set in 18k white gold,” says Renu Oberoi, creative director of her eponymous jewellery brand. “It's a simple design, but looks stunning when worn,” she adds.
“There is an interesting story behind these rubies—around three years ago, I had purchased strands of them for a necklace set I had designed, and these were left from the back of the strand. They were graded and not easy to use in any design. It bothered me that such lovely beads were just lying around. Then it suddenly came to me that I can use them like cut precious stones,” she recalls.
The beads needed to be placed with absolute precision, and it took a month to determine how to go about it. “The final product was just gorgeous!,” Renu says. “This 3D cuff has a lot of height and depth to it. It’s easy to slip on and off because of its spring mechanism, and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.”
She recommends wearing it with a sleeveless dress or a top with thin straps to make an impression. “It also looks great with a sari or kurta,” she adds.