An Intimate Masterclass With Belmond Chefs And A Date With Italian Culinary Delights

The recently-concluded Italian food festival at San Gimignano at The Imperial, New Delhi brought together Executive Chef Attilio Di Fabrizio from Belmond Villa San Michele, Florence and Chef Roberto Gatto from Belmond Hotel Cipriani, Venice for a two-week long culinary extravaganza. The chefs unveiled their first look at an exclusive ‘Italian Masterclass’ under the open sky at San Gimignano lawns, whipping up a few of their signature recipes from their respective regions. Here’s what they had to say about their experience as well as about home-style, pizza-oven Italian cooking. Plus, the big food and dessert trends to look out for. 

San Gimignano Courtyard

What brings you to San Gimignano at The Imperial, known to be connoisseurs of Tuscan Italian cuisine for many years?

The Imperial, New Delhi is a milestone; a dream for international travellers and Indian guests too. The fact that among its restaurants there is a little one reserved for Italian cusine made us feel we were in the right situation: not a big, crowded place but an intimate and romantic one where the simplicity of the dishes speaks for itself and with a typical Pizza Oven in the Courtyard. In addition to this, the name of the restaurant San Gimignano, one of the nicest gems in Tuscany, seemed perfect!  

Panacotta at San Gimignano, The Imperial New Delhi

Tell us about the concept of an interactive Italian cooking masterclass and working with uncomplicated recipes. 

A: At Belmond Villa San Michele in Fiorence, we have a traditional cooking school, one of the first to be founded in Italy amidst a magical location, within an ancient greenhouse, overlooking Florence. Our cookery classes are still deeply appreciated among our international guests and the main reason for that is because we cherish the authenticity of our concept, year after year. We are not modern, Michelin-star chefs. What we try to do is bringing the basics of Italian cuisine to the heart of guests so that they are not uncomfortable to try themselves at home.

In Venice, Roberto takes guests to the Rialto market to select the products, vegetables, and fish to use. Then he walks back to the hotel with them and they cook together. If he would create something too complicated, very few people would try themselves, once back at home. Italian cuisine for both of us is immediate. Goes from the heart to the mouth.  

Italian Buffet at San Gimignano, The Imperial New Delhi 

Chef Fabrizio, tell us about the recipes that you demonstrated at the festival. 

I decided to present to the Indian audience two dishes that made Italy famous all over the world: Fresh tomato sauce dumplings and Tiramisù.

Both of them might seem complicated at the first go but they are not. So when I make them at my cooking classes, showing my clients how easy and fun (you really have your hands on) it is to make the “gnocchi”—dumplings dressed with fresh tomato, garlic, and basil, I love how they are pleasantly surprised. I could not think of not teaching how to make the tiramisù, the most popular Italian dessert, of which each family, grandmother, and chef have their own specific recipe. Try mine and let me know what you think, I am sure that you will not be deceived!

Chef Attilio di Fabrizio at TheMasterclass at San Gimignano, The Imperial New Delhi 

And, Chef Gatto, what do you have to say about the recipes that you demonstrated?

This year is an important year for Belmond Hotel  Cipriani. We are celebrating the 60^th anniversary and the 20^th one for my restaurant, the CIP's Club facing St Mark. For such an important moment for the hotel, I decided to bring to Delhi a part of our tradition and to teach how to cook a risotto carnaroli mantecato with asparagus.  

Have you visited any spice market or gone on a food trail in Delhi? 

R: Yes, I visited old Delhi. I could not believe my senses and my eyes! Despite the multitude of people, cars, sounds, those little shops enchanted me.

A: Of course, I did. The spice market in old Delhi is a feast for the senses and a must-visit for any chef.  In my cooking, I prefer using herbs instead of spices, moreover, I think that I am one of the few chefs who do not use any form of pepper at all. However, this was an experience, I bought several types of masala and I must admit that now I am addicted to the Indian masala tea!

Chef Attilio creates Fiesole style potato dumplings with fresh tomato

India is distinctively diverse and eclectic when it comes to regional variations in food. Have you been familiarised with any regional cuisine and if so, what do you think about it?

R: I came here only for a working trip but definetly next time I will want to get lost in the northern part and start experiencing its food on my own. 

A: I have not had enough time to become better concious of which dish is typical of a specific region. Your country and culture is so big that it would take longer to internalise it. I love the fact that, as in Italy, the regional traditions are protected and still alive, for leisure next time, I will explore more. 

Italy is also big on regional cuisine. What would you like to highlight for the regions that you represent?

R: I am from Veneto Region and I grew up with this culture and flavours that I still cherish in my cuisine.

A: I was born in the region of Abbruzzo, and even though I travelled the world before I established myself in Florence 35 years ago. I have always loved Tuscan cuisine and it is very present in all my dishes even though influences of my previous experiences are not to be missed either.

Chef Roberto Gatto creates Green Risotto asparagus at the Masterclass at The Imperial New Delhi 

What according to you are the biggest food trends currently? 

Wine, pasta, and cheese are still the Italian products, which are most sold in the world but in the last five years, I noticed that products of other countries are experiencing a successful era in Italy like beer, caviar, and fresh mushrooms. Vegetables will continue its rise on the dinner plate, as animal proteins and heavy side dishes make way for more vegetarian options. I also saw a triumph of the seeds. The presence of chia, quinoa, and many other high-protein fibres suggest a sense of health and wellbeing to the products.

Within the great Italian food industry, Tuscan products represent a further worldwide-acclaimed added value. In Tuscan cities and towns, taverns and restaurants abound, while in the countryside, there are plenty of farms and farmhouses. Each year, more than three million guests enjoy a stay at Tuscan agri-tourism hotels, surrounded by fields, vineyards, pastures, forests, and picturesque villages. Tuscan cuisine is about simple dishes carrying a strong local identity: the expression of a centuries-old rural culture.

Any particular dessert trend that you would like to draw our attention to?

We both agree that people are more and more focussed on health and require less sugar and fat, so there is a lot of emphasis on fruits. Regarding wedding cakes, the big trend of candy tables or cake design is getting to an end.

Chef Attilio creates Tiramisu during the Masterclass at San Gimignano, The Imperial New Delhi

What would you like to tell about wedding food trends?

Many people are coming to Venice or Florence to celebrate the most important day of their life. What we noticed in our hotels is that from celebrities to young couples, what make the event special is... having fun!

Brunches have become popular maybe because it is also an informal solution for guests who do not want to dress up like stars, or the day before the wedding for a more restricted group, it is very trendy to have a pizza party, by the pool.

For daytime garden weddings, vegetables and local, organic fruits are a must.

Chef Roberto Gatto of Belmond Cipriani, Venice at The Masterclass at San Gimignano, The Imperial 

Finally, is there a dish that you have enjoyed eating here during your stay? Any new dish that you have learnt to cook or pick up soon?

The lentils are delicious, each chef has his own touch to make them special. Also, all dishes prepared in the tandoor, especially the meats are incredibly tender. 

This is what Prem K Pogakula, Executive Chef, The Imperial New Delhi, had to say about the collaboration: “It’s an exchange of cultures between The Imperial and Belmond Hotels. As San Gimignano promoted Italian cuisine in India with Belmond chefs, we will go to Italy later this year in October to promote Indian cuisine. So my best learning experience this year has been to manage the collaboration with the chefs from Belmond hotels. I've spent a lot in the last six months looking closely and procuring fresh ingredients, cheese, meats etc and  the other members of my team with the managing staff were trying to get a sense of what works. I worked with the chefs closely to make sure all the cooking done at San Gimignano is as perfect as Italian local and fine dining kitchens.”

On that note, we leave you with yearnings for homely, comforting recipes prepared in your own terraces and kitchens, and probably with produce sourced from your own gardens. As for the basics of Italian cooking, how about starting with a basic basil, garlic, and tomato pasta right away?  

Assisted by Dishari Basu.