In Conversation with Ritu Kumar, Sanjay Garg, Karan Torani, Aneeth Arora & Palak Shah on Indian Handloom
On the account of National Handloom Day, here is what these leading Indian designers have to say about the future of handloom in fashion industry.
Did you know Indian handlooms make up almost 95% of the world's handwoven fabrics? Handloom fabrics constitute a timeless facet of the rich cultural heritage of India. They form a precious part of the generational legacy and exemplify the richness and diversity of our culture and the artistry of the weavers. As every art inspires curiosity we engaged in conversation with five designers famous for their exquisite representation of handloom. When it comes to the global outlook towards handlooms in India, veteran designer Ritu Kumar believes that in an environmentally conscious world, having a flourishing handloom sector give the country an added advantage. Aside from being an ecologically sound way of producing fabrics, handlooms also provide a vast network of livelihood of countless artisans around the country. Sanjay Garg, founder of Raw Mango makes a very interesting point when he says, “We tend to express this as 'us working with them/weavers', though I believe breaking this distinction is critical. The sooner we begin to address this as 'us', it will be easier to recognize the value and changes that need to be made in this sector. There is always going to be a need for local weave and crafts, this among others, is what contributes to a nation's identity & individuality - why would we want to take a look elsewhere when there is still so much to be discovered? The unique and exotic quality of Indian handlooms are the two distinctive features that have made this craft more viable other man-made textiles, according the Aneeth Arora, founder, péro.
Ritu Kumar
View this post on Instagram
In a world of machines and technology, handmade designs should be considered a luxury and the clothing made out of handlooms, couture. Aneeth Arora agrees. She says “The entire essence of luxury is summed up with the fact that it is all handmade.” Palak Shah, creative head at Ekaya believes that the more people that embrace clothing made with handlooms, the better it is for the art. A young designer, Karan Torani who recently started his label Torani, a brand that spotlights the beauty of Chanderi, however, highlights the dark side of the handloom industry in India. “In my opinion, the handloom industry faces lack of interest which will lead to its downfall. The competition from power loom has rendered the craft disabled, the result of which is that the artisans no longer encourage their children to continue their legacy of the loom.” Handloom is a reflection of craftsmanship and luxury - something individualistic that the wearer of the garment can experience and feel. For handloom to become a foundation, there is still a lot of work to do, and not necessarily from designers alone. The media, government and weavers all have a role to play. Many pillars need to work more cohesively together.
Sanjay Garg
View this post on Instagram
Whether its a beautiful Benarasi sari you gift your daughter-in-law or a intricate Patola printed dupatta you wear on your mehendi ceremony, handlooms are often inextricably linked to Indian weddings. Torani suggests that one need not make a full ensemble out of it, but can experiment with a printed lehenga paired with a beautiful handwoven Jamawar Pashmina for a winter wedding or carry a tissue odhni with lehenga-choli for a Mehendi celebration. On the other hand, Garg believes that the functionality and uniqueness of the textile should be paramount when it serves its purpose in a garment. If you’re looking to incorporate handlooms in your outfit but do not want to skimp on embellishment and embroidery, Arora recommends using the weave as a base textile and adding other embroidery crafts that are native to our country to add surface ornamentation.
Karan Torani
View this post on Instagram
Aneeth Arora
View this post on Instagram
Palak Shah
View this post on Instagram
Handlooms They Love:
Ritu Kumar: I have two favourites, one is Khadi and the other is Banarasi silk.
Sanjay Garg: Mashru - it’s the closest to personal DNA.
Karan Torani: Chanderi is very close to my heart. I started my label with it and interacted with the artisans involved as well. Not only does this fabric find a way in all my collection it also gives the outfit grace and makes it look breezy as well.
Aneeth Arora: India is so diverse in terms of crafts and culture that every region has very unique textiles, crafts and textiles tradition. it is not easy to pinpoint which one is the best when there is so much variety and which are so unique in itself.
Palak Shah: Handloom has a soft corner in my heart. But my favourite is from my label's new arrival collection.
.......Advertisement....
Discover the top 10 wedding planners to make your special day unforgettable
You won't need to worry about anything with them around.
Vedika and Omair's interfaith court marriage defies cultural norms
Modern love prevails.
