Everything You Ever Needed to Know About Polki Jewellery

• What is it?

No bridal trousseau is complete without a polki set. Made of unfinished natural diamonds, this craft celebrates the stone in its rawest form.

• How is it different from kundan jewellery?

The two look quite similar and use some of the same crafting techniques. If you are deciding which one to invest in, it may help to know how to distinguish between them before you choose. While polki is made of uncut diamonds, kundan uses glass stones. Consequently, the former is more expensive.

• How to set your budget?

Pratiksha Prashant, CEO of Kishandas & Co, a Hyderabad-based jewellery brand, says that the price of a set varies, depending on cut and size of the stone being used. Your jeweller must always share the resale/buyback value of the set you are purchasing. This depends on the size of the set and quality of diamonds.

• Where do you get the best polki?

Hyderabad and Jaipur are the best cities to buy precious and authentic stones. Other modern jewellers across India that also make for a good option include Amrapali, Hazoorilal Legacy, and Khanna Jewellers.

• How to take care of your jewellery?

Always clean your pieces before putting them in storage—even the slightest bit of sweat can change the colour. Wrap jewellery in cotton or a cloth-lined pouch to prevent damage and store in an airtight, rectangular box. “Make sure you put on your jewellery at the end and remove it first after a night out to keep it safe,” advises jeweller Sunita Shekhawat, founder of her eponymous jewellery label.

• The art and craft behind timeless polki jewellery

According to Yash Agarwal, creative director, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas, polki is extremely versatile and can easily be set with any other gemstone. Contrasting colours tend to suit Indian skin tones. Pair with emeralds, rubies, pearls and sapphires to create striking pieces.

“Open and closed settings are the most popular”, says Shekhawat. The closed setting dates back to the Mughal era and is a labour-intensive craft. There are only a few artisans in the country who can produce such authentic and intricate work. This setting almost always has meenakari work at the back of the piece. Meenakari uses brilliant colours that are decorated with intricate motifs and design patterns.The open setting is a new and modern technique, which is not as labour-intensive and therefore less expensive and cost-effective.

• How to pick the right piece of polki jewellery?

Polki is a trousseau must-have. “An Indian bride should keep in mind that while selecting jewellery that it is stackable, she can break the pieces and wear them,” says designer Tarun Tahiliani. “They should be timeless and it should be great value for money. Value comes from the inherent quality of the stones and the quality of the workmanship behind it.”

Detachable jewellery makes for a great option. A big choker can be made into two neck-pieces and worn separately. You can turn a long earring into a smaller one without losing any of its authentic appeal.

As a new bride, you will be expected to attend several post-wedding events and parties. Pick sets that work for all such occasions. Invest in classic designs that you can combine with both Indian and western wear. Traditional motifs, like peacocks and lotuses, have a timeless appeal. And buy a piece with good quality stones—they do not deteriorate and can be passed on to generations”, says Shekhawat.