Amit Aggarwal, Palak Shah, and Rahul Mishra on the evolving sartorial preferences of the modern bride

Sustainability, ethical practices, and kinder choices make it to the top of the list.

If you were to think about what the greatest learning of the past two years has been, for weddings, it would probably be that small-scale, low-waste celebrations are the future. And that is not just restricted to the number of guests and scale of the functions; it applies to the wedding outfit itself. The modern bride, in fact, has decided to take a more sustainable approach to her outfit in keeping with her principles, and also the astonishing research regarding the urgent need to conserve recourses. Which is why Brides Today spoke with three couturiers who have been championing the cause and experimenting with environmentally-friendly approaches to inspire you to make conscious decisions that you would be proud of.

AMIT AGGARWAL

Recycling materials like PET bottles, rubber cords, and yarns, Delhi-based designer Amit Aggarwal’s sculptural garments have long been a favourite with brides and guests alike, both for their unique silhouettes and distinct metallic finish. “A large demographic of brides are now extremely conscious about what they are buying, though not everyone understands the concept of sustainability,” Aggarwal tells us. So, the couturier has been using the power of social media to convey the details and information behind his creations, be that the textiles he uses or the workmanship that goes into the pieces.

For Aggarwal, sustainability is both about the materials used and how often the garment is worn. His creations include materials made from the by-product of industries, and none of the outfits have any cancan or underlays—fabrics that are made from nylon and polyester—in them.

A way to shop ethically—and smartly—according to him, is to invest in pieces that are multi-functional so that they can be worn in different ways. “I make sure that the bride or groom choose outfits that don’t end up in the back of their closet... I always try and design blouses, skirts, or drapes that can be styled with the existing wardrobe, lending themselves to the larger conversation around the longevity of the pieces.” Investment pieces are the need of the hour: more wearable styles that offer multiple uses over the years to come. This, according to Aggarwal, can be achieved with a bit of encouragement from the designer, and support from the design team, to help a customer select styles that have long-term value.

“One also needs to question the brand’s practices—do they take care of the employees and karigars affiliated with it? I feel that the younger generation is becoming more aware of such information,” Aggarwal emphasises.

While the intention is strong, many brides still may not know how to make more conscious decisions with their outfits. Not over-experimenting or over-tweaking the original design could actually help, states Aggarwal, because creating prototypes can lead to a lot of wastage of materials. When shopping, you could also ask yourself whether the piece’s aesthetic will hold true in the coming future, or will you pass it on to your daughter or son. “Ethical bridal fashion requires a 360-degree lens, where the conversations take place about the design, materials, human relationships, and ultimately, how you end up using the product.”

PALAK SHAH

“Brides, these days, definitely want to work with brands that are ethical,” says Shah, whose Benarasi weaves under label Ekaya Banaras have found an audience across the globe. The label, which has been working with weavers in Benaras for almost 120 years over the generations, has also taken on the work of helping with the education of its weavers, and creating a favourable environment for them to continue their precious skills so that the legacy of Indian craft lives on.

“Niche brides are very well-informed and come for wedding shopping having researched the history of the brands they are buying from,” Shah explains. According to her, brides should pay very keen attention to the ethics of the brand, regarding their work practices, fair wages, and both after-sales and after-weaving services. “Once the project is completed, is the brand involved with the security and upkeep of the weaver? Or was it just a transactional relationship between them? And how is it treating its employees? All these factors should determine your purchase as well as your association with the brand,” she states.

Along with these important questions, checking the materials used is crucial, too. For instance, outfits with polyester in them are bad for the environment, and ought to be avoided. However, she admits, creating a 100 per cent sustainable look is next to impossible, especially because it impacts the scale of production that may not support the weavers in the long run. “When brands push for sustainability, they need to amplify the work opportunities and wages of the weavers as well, because production processes can get delayed in procuring the materials and producing the final product,” Shah shares.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ekaya (@ekayabanaras)

So, practicality with sustainability is the solution, in her books. But more than that, sustainability needs to be a collective effort of the fashion industry so that fresh innovations can take place in materials and processes. “This can’t be a one-person effort; one person is like a drop in the ocean, but they will end up going back to the old ways if they don’t get the proper support. The industry needs to come together and, step by step, try to reduce the wastage and find alternatives,” the Delhi-based entrepreneur says. “Sustainability and the socio-environmental impact need to become everyone’s priority.”

What can you do to support the cause? “With social media awareness and its incredible speed at spreading knowledge, if just one bride decides to make a change, there will be many others following suit,” she opines. In July 2022, Ekaya Banaras launched project ‘Second Chance’, with a aim to foster the reselling and revival of pre-owned textiles from the brand. Change, after all, begins at home.

RAHUL MISHRA

When Mishra, who is a favourite with Hollywood and Bollywood celebrities, meets brides for their wedding looks, he is often asked about the processes of creating the garments. “I’ve realised their choices are almost an appreciation of the slowness of embroidery and craftsmanship. They want to know how many times they will be able to use that very piece,” he tells Brides Today. Mishra’s suggestion is to team up a lehenga with a shirt, or drape a dupatta with different kurta. “Brides have evolved a lot in their choices. For me, the desire to re-wear is one of the biggest points in sustainability.”

The greatest wastage, according to Mishra, is when an outfit is bought just for the day of the wedding. However, the wastage can be controlled by creating a modern version of the outfit. “Any bride, after the big function, will attend multiple weddings in her life where the lehenga can be worn as a beautiful, long skirt. Select the right bridal piece and put some thought into how you can style, reuse, and re-engage with that piece,” the designer advises.

Ethicality in fashion boils down to the materials used, and silk is one such fabric that many don’t agree with since it harms the silkworm. Mishra suggests looking for pieces made from Bemberg rayon, a cotton-based fabric that is silky in touch. “Polyester, on the other hand, is non-biodegradable but it is the least harmful to animals... So it all comes down to finding the right balance with what one wants to do. These are very important and good questions to ask, and we all have to collectively find answers to them,” he explains.

At his own studio, Mishra looks to create pieces that stay relevant within the fashion ecosystem for longer. But ethicality, to him, lies in slowing down the production processes to increase the participation of artisans and craftspeople. Fair and sustainable wages are crucial, too, and he takes extreme care not to source embroideries from places where people are underpaid or working extra hours.

“Beyond this we also offer repair services to our clients because a lot of the embroideries are fragile and detailed. In case there are any accidental tears, we repair them at a minimal cost to elongate the lifespan of the garment. Our aim is to
create bridal wear that will last for life and capture the wearer’s imagination and love forever,” Mishra shares.

Not just bridal fashion, Mishra believes that the future of all fashion is to be ethical and sustainable. “Consumers should ask difficult questions like who made their clothes, and what percentage of the MRP is going directly to the embroiderer, weaver, or producer... I love handloom, but there are times when you purchase a handloom sari for ₹50,000 but the weaver doesn’t even get paid ₹2,000 rupees for it! This is a major imbalance about which customers should ask questions,” he reveals. The designer believes that brands need to be held accountable for transparency of price and processes.

Lead image: Rahul Mishra/Instagram

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